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  1. Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    6,160
    #2441
    Its along amang rodriguez avenue.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

  2. Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    12,683
    #2442
    Quote Originally Posted by EQAddict View Post
    Its along amang rodriguez avenue.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
    Thanks bro.

    Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk

  3. Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    45
    #2443
    Quote Originally Posted by desmosedici View Post
    So Mickey's team installed the following on the Carnival:

    Pioneer AVH-8850BT
    Focal ES165K2
    Steg 120.2 Q-mos amp
    Focal BP20 powered sub (so much for an under seat sub, the presence of under seat rear A/C vents deterred this plan)

    Happy with the fact that no stock wire was spliced, that the reverse cam and steering controls all worked afterwards (tricky that last one), and that the install was so neat - except for the Focal Bomba sub box in the back, everything looked stock.

    The SQ? I think the lively characteristic of Focals is perfect for a car environment. Details rise above the road noise. I love the highs actually - pinpoint and sparkly. Mickey tuned the setup and tonal balance and time alignment is perfect at the driver's seat.

    A bit over-budget but I'm happy to pay for quality stuff, work and results. Thanks to all the tsikot forum advisers.

    Nice! Congrats

  4. Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    241
    #2444
    Guys pa audition naman ng new focals. Dati kasi i find the tweeters ng focal medyo matalas and fatiguing. Some say na iba na daw ngayon. I plan to install a sound setup sa starex namin and i want to see kung ok na yung tweeters ng bagong focal ES165k / ES 165K2 / ES 165KX2. I plan to power them with Helix G5 (subs is JL 12w3v3) using a Helix DSP.2 (Head unit = Pioneer 8850)

    Kung meron din sa inyo merong 10" in a sealed box, baka pwede din pa audition. I want to see kasi kung kaya na ng 10" sealed yung starex para mas maliit lang yung box.

    Music pref ko is pop, jazz, 80s, disco and the like. Im not really into rock/trance/hard core music/etc

    Salamat!

  5. Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    45
    #2445
    Quote Originally Posted by joms View Post
    Guys pa audition naman ng new focals. Dati kasi i find the tweeters ng focal medyo matalas and fatiguing. Some say na iba na daw ngayon. I plan to install a sound setup sa starex namin and i want to see kung ok na yung tweeters ng bagong focal ES165k / ES 165K2 / ES 165KX2. I plan to power them with Helix G5 (subs is JL 12w3v3) using a Helix DSP.2 (Head unit = Pioneer 8850)

    Kung meron din sa inyo merong 10" in a sealed box, baka pwede din pa audition. I want to see kasi kung kaya na ng 10" sealed yung starex para mas maliit lang yung box.

    Music pref ko is pop, jazz, 80s, disco and the like. Im not really into rock/trance/hard core music/etc

    Salamat!
    Try niyo rin po maghanap ng flax series ng focal. 165f, 165f3 or 165fx. Yun po ata yung mga warm ngayon na focal. Never tried or ano, nabasa ko lang sa net at sa reviews hehe.

  6. Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    1,138
    #2446
    Quote Originally Posted by Lzarellano View Post
    Try niyo rin po maghanap ng flax series ng focal. 165f, 165f3 or 165fx. Yun po ata yung mga warm ngayon na focal. Never tried or ano, nabasa ko lang sa net at sa reviews hehe.
    +1
    Flax series ng Focal is warm. If you are around the lower Antipolo area, I can let you audition mine.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

  7. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #2447
    Quote Originally Posted by ParticleX View Post
    are Flashbands and alternatives effective in deadening the doors? i sound like a cheapskate as i am one

    any ideas on how much does it cost? also baka may iba pang "generic" siya na pangalan that would help when asking the salesman at the hardware shop
    They're not effective for their cost.

    As a previous thread: https://www.tsikot.com/forums/car-au...feedback-7555/

    Just because it's cheap, doesn't mean it'll work well. I go write a 3 paragraph long explanation on why but many people won't like me delving into physics of mass and resonance.

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    196
    #2448
    Quote Originally Posted by jhnkvn View Post
    They're not effective for their cost.

    As a previous thread: https://www.tsikot.com/forums/car-au...feedback-7555/

    Just because it's cheap, doesn't mean it'll work well. I go write a 3 paragraph long explanation on why but many people won't like me delving into physics of mass and resonance.
    I'd be interested .

  9. Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    4
    #2449
    pwede ba to mga sir sa Isuzu Crosswind XUV (2003)? or kung may masuggest kayo mas ok or mas murang alternative. CHEER 7in Touch Screen HD Car DVD-player Stereo Radio Audio GPS
    Memory Navigator | Lazada PH


    TIA

  10. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #2450
    Quote Originally Posted by desmosedici View Post
    I'd be interested .
    Noise dampening insulation basically comes down to two things: absorbing or blocking the sound, and reducing/eliminating the movement of parts which leads to vibration and rattling noises.

    To tackle the latter..

    You need to understand the three parts of sound deadeners..

    1. mass to be dampened (sheet metal in a car)
    2. constraining layer (butyl rubber)
    3. reflection dampening layer (aluminum layer)

    When the mass to be dampened (henceforth sheet metal) is vibrating, it will ring until the energy is either lost in heat, or radiated into the surrounding air as kinetic energy. Vibrations from the cars driving along the road, the air moving past the panels, from the engine just being turned on - all these can excite the atoms in the sheet metal and make it reverberate and we consider this movement as "noise". To negate it, we need to counter the ring with an equal but opposite force as best we can. Thus enters the sound deadening where the constraining layer (butyl) is set to bond with the reflecting dampening mass (aluminum) to the sheetmetal that will respond to a vibration with an opposite vibration -- canceling out the first vibration.

    To do this, they use the first vibration impact to push the aluminum layer at a delay that coincides with its distance from the sheet metal. this first impact causes the aluminum to vibrate out of phase with the sheet metal, hopefully causing both of their vibrations to stop dead in their tracks - or close to it. This is why the butyl viscosity and its thickness are very important to get the aluminum layer to vibrate at the right phase-time to the sheet metal.

    In reality tho, the vast majority of the dampening is less on the aluminum layer but more on the forces the butyl creates. This is why I don't mind generic OEM butyls with no aluminum layers on it.

    But that's the vibration aspect and more geared towards car audio...

    If we look at the former..

    A piece of paper won't block off sound well. But a huge slab of concrete will. You basically need mass to absorb sounds.

    Now, don't worry, there's actually a car running in the Philippines that has concrete poured inside it as a cost-effective way to reduce vibrations and noise. But that car competes in worldwide decibel competitions as any vibration (or out of phase sounds) reduces your score drastically. For one, it has enough decibels to kill a person inside

audio set-up for beginners [continued]