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Verified Tsikot Member
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December 11th, 2014 08:30 AM #1431Sir thanks for your feedback on the PDX-V9.
Spec says Per channel into 2 ohms: 100W RMS x 4 + 500W RMS (2-ohm, 14.4V <1%THD+N).
Since the FX's midbass isn't strong, I'm eyeing another midbass woofer that is rated 3ohms impedance 100W RMS (200W max).
Would I run into heat issues?
Sorry, I became worried on the recent posts.
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Verified Tsikot Member
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December 17th, 2014 12:02 AM #1432Boss tanung lang, need pa ba ng e-crossover kahit may built-in na amplifier ko, dako satisfied sa quality ng audio set up ko, im using 2din AVM, sub jbl-s12 at sa front door naman GT5-502 plus tweeter GTO18T and stock speaker naman sa likod. Im using AM1850d lightning lab at x12 ampli naman sa speakers. D ako satisfied sa quality. Hindi kaya sa head unit problema ko, any suggestion? Tia
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December 17th, 2014 04:31 AM #1433
*roblio
Regarding the X12 mrv-1507 4channel 3600watts, please.. that's quite a generic V12 amplifier (bootlegs in fact of the famous Alpine V12) and it's usually used for powering of separates - not power-hungry subwoofers. Don't buy the 3600W, it does not even produce half of that value. It's doing something like 60W * 4 ohms on each channel.
Isipin mo muna how you'll wire the subwoofer up. Since meron ka dalawang dual-VC subwoofers you have quite a lot of options naman. But to answer your question, kaya ba ng MRV ang 2-ohm load stable? The answer is... no. Most budget amplifiers aren't built that well sa power supply section nila to supply you 2-ohms on bridged mode. If you're doing a mono or 2-channel amplifier, baka pwede pa. But for 4-channels? Nah, they're just 4ohm stable bridged.
Stable on 2-ohms? Probably on a per-channel basis yan. Ex. 60Wx4 * 4ohms, 90Wx4 * 2ohms. But please, don't believe the box. Yun 3600W palang nga linoloko ka na pano pa yun ibang specifications.
Your best bet? Just use one of the voice coils - tutunong parin naman yan and use it on a bridged 4-channel amplifier.
*acgq
Not all amplifiers are like that. It will depend sa power supply section ng amplifiers. More expensive amplifiers are often over-built so they are stable even under heavy load. For example, my Audison VRX amplifier is stable at 1 ohm on a per channel basis while stable at 2 ohms on bridge.
*hypnos
Regarding the FX's midbass, don't worry about it. It's strong enough for 98% of the people who run it. Even if you run sub-less and try to squeeze every bit of excursion sa midbass, kaya parin niya. However, just don't expect outside listening. But for in-car listening? It's more than enough. Don't let your midbass run lower than 50hz, it isn't worth it. Get a subwoofer if you plan to go that low.
For the midbass, how much power it will need will depend on your listening levels. However, I don't believe bitin ang mga tao even with 70W of power. 100W is more than enough.
Oh and heat is the least of your worries. The PDX series are Class D amplifiers and are very efficient - heat issues are practically nonexistent.
*metal_mulisha01
Pano mo masasabi na "hindi ka satisfied sa quality?"
From my point, I think isang problem mo dyan is that you're using coaxial drivers on your doors and a tweeter up front. Yun ngyayari kasi dyan is it's confusing. First is that you hear high-pitched sounds from your dash (assuming nasa dash yun tweet) at nasa paa mo (where most midbass drivers are). Second is that paminsan magkakaroon yan ng phasing problems due to overlapping sound waves. So stick with a separate component speaker muna - midbass at doors and a tweeter on top.
For the others, kaya mo yan idaan sa good installation and tuning.
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Verified Tsikot Member
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December 17th, 2014 12:05 PM #1434Thanks a lot for the response sir jhnkvn. I am learning a lot from your posts. You even took the time to respond to everyone's inquries complete with details.
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December 17th, 2014 03:13 PM #1435
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December 17th, 2014 08:05 PM #1436
Hard to say. Optimistic yes, however.. it'll depend on how you'll measure it. I think 60W of RMS power is probable at 14.4V. However, whether it's under 1% THD is another matter altogether
Many would peg it from 40-60W depending on voltage really. But the jump of 20W isn't really that much overhead.
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December 18th, 2014 04:51 AM #1437
Yup, I am guessing, if CEA ratings would apply, it is going to be rated at 20x4 to 30x4 *14.4v, since 10A x 14.4v = 144w. Probably that's the bridge mode total na.
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December 18th, 2014 05:13 AM #1438
Probably around 20W. The thing with 30W is that... if you also factor amplifier efficiency and it's 70% efficient, a 120W (30Wx4) draw will present an actual load of 170W which will blow the fuse.
However, mga ibang fuse sa ganyan are simply defectiveso who knows..
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Tsikot Member
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December 27th, 2014 10:29 PM #1439Merry Christmas to all
I am still in the planning stages of my SQ build, and I am currently deciding on two component sets that fit my budget. The first would be a Focal 165F which was my original choice, having auditioned numerous focal builds already. However, the second choice I have is a Hertz HSK 165 which also comes highly recommended. I haven't auditioned a Hertz system before so I can't really compare.
Can anyone compare the two, or perhaps recommend one over the other? I understand that SQ is very subjective, but I am just curious how these two seps are alike/different.
Thanks in advance
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December 28th, 2014 06:37 PM #1440