audio set-up for beginners [continued]

**D3nb3r** · August 23rd, 2014 08:20 AM

good day mga gurus,
newbie here

I've been back reading for quite some time now. I've learn a lot, thanks.
I'm planning to make a DIY upgrade on speakers but on stock HU. I have a pick-up btw and a family guy kaya not much of choice sa space. Kaya plan ko speakers and sound deadening lang yung set-up ko.

Sa mga nabasa ko po kasi pag ang speakers that are more than 5k ang price dapat mg add na nang amp. Also most guys here always say that you have to find the highest sensitivity possible for the planned budget. I'm working on a ship and sometimes our trade routes are europe and US. I found a $110.00 rockford fosgate P1675-S 120W peak power, 60W rms and a 89dB sensitivity.That price is below 5k na

but I dont know if this unit has the same price sa pinas.
My question po is: At what specs of a component set-up speakers do I have to add an amp?
any input will be much appreciated thanks.

**machinepistol** · August 23rd, 2014 08:58 AM

I installed a Rockford Fosgate R1652-S (separates) and R1653 (3-way co-axial) each with 80w peak power output and 40w RMS on the stock HU of my Monty GLS 2010 with sound deadening on all four doors (inner and outer). Very nice result.

**D3nb3r** · August 23rd, 2014 02:48 PM

Originally Posted by machinepistol

I installed a Rockford Fosgate R1652-S (separates) and R1653 (3-way co-axial) each with 80w peak power output and 40w RMS on the stock HU of my Monty GLS 2010 with sound deadening on all four doors (inner and outer). Very nice result.

Thanks for the info sir manchinepistol.
Yung 2010 gls monty po ba naka 7" MMS na? I'm planning din kasi a DIY reverse camera installation. Magkano po ba kuha nyo sa R1652-S seps and R1653 coax? pag konti lang price difference, sa pinas na lang ako bibili.

Edit: Hindi pala R1652-S yung nakita kong add but R1675-S

kaya nag taka ako bakit mag kaiba nang specs sa inyo sir. Sorry. Kaya I still stand by my question na: at what max power/rms of a speaker do I have to install an amp?

**jhnkvn** · August 24th, 2014 06:21 AM

(!)
1. Do NOT base a speaker's RMS power as it's required power
2. Do NOT correlate higher RMS into better speakers nor do higher RMS need "more power"

A speaker's RMS and peak power ratings are just quantitative measurements on how much power can the speaker handle during transients and during sustained playing. And.. that's all. If you have 500W of power on tap then you turn up the volume on a 300W peak wattage speaker, then expect a blown voice coil.

Whether you need an amplifier or not will depend on your listening levels. That's all.

An amplifier won't miraculously make your system sing. In fact, if you stay under the head unit's 18W output, you'll be guessing most of the time if you claim to hear a difference between a head unit powered and an amplified system. If you simply do background listening on a speaker, you won't need an amplifier. If you plan on listening to a louder decibel level, then it's time to throw one in.

**red_one** · August 24th, 2014 09:05 AM

Originally Posted by D3nb3r

at what max power/rms of a speaker do I have to install an amp?

just like what jhnkvn said, it all depends on your listening level.

example, if you have 45W RMS speakers and head unit with 20W RMS power output, and you are already listening at full volume yet still not loud enough for you, then that is the time to add an amp.

**simonzaide** · August 24th, 2014 02:15 PM

Sirs i have another question.. if i go the 3 way route it means i will need to disable my rear speakers since this will mess the tuning. Is it possible to replace these rear speakers with a pair of small subs lets say around 2 pieces of 8 inch subs

Subs will be mou ted where the speakers are of course this would entail retrofit for it to fit

I was thinking of this because i wanted to save on trunk space

**D3nb3r** · August 24th, 2014 02:39 PM

Originally Posted by jhnkvn

(!)
1. Do NOT base a speaker's RMS power as it's required power
2. Do NOT correlate higher RMS into better speakers nor do higher RMS need "more power"

A speaker's RMS and peak power ratings are just quantitative measurements on how much power can the speaker handle during transients and during sustained playing. And.. that's all. If you have 500W of power on tap then you turn up the volume on a 300W peak wattage speaker, then expect a blown voice coil.

Whether you need an amplifier or not will depend on your listening levels. That's all.

An amplifier won't miraculously make your system sing. In fact, if you stay under the head unit's 18W output, you'll be guessing most of the time if you claim to hear a difference between a head unit powered and an amplified system. If you simply do background listening on a speaker, you won't need an amplifier. If you plan on listening to a louder decibel level, then it's time to throw one in.

thanks for that info sir jhnkvn. As always, you make time to give a detailed answer and patience to newbies like us.

Originally Posted by red_one

just like what jhnkvn said, it all depends on your listening level.

example, if you have 45W RMS speakers and head unit with 20W RMS power output, and you are already listening at full volume yet still not loud enough for you, then that is the time to add an amp.

yes sir, I can say the volume I usually use cant wake up the neighbors but mostly I like a pronounce bass. I know seperates are not built for that. I guess I have to wait after the sound deadening and speaker upgrade if I really need the amps. Thanks.

**MonteroGLSV** · August 24th, 2014 03:02 PM

Thanks also sir jhnkvn another question here.

do you recommend this kind of setup for monti?

Pillar modification cost is 6,000

set of focal 165fx, cost is 22k. This includes two tw, two midbass and two xover.

**jhnkvn** · August 24th, 2014 04:00 PM

Originally Posted by simonzaide

Sirs i have another question.. if i go the 3 way route it means i will need to disable my rear speakers since this will mess the tuning. Is it possible to replace these rear speakers with a pair of small subs lets say around 2 pieces of 8 inch subs

Subs will be mou ted where the speakers are of course this would entail retrofit for it to fit

I was thinking of this because i wanted to save on trunk space

Yes. If you're taking the SQ route seriously, disabled rear speakers are preferred. Tuning 7 speakers are already a pain in the ass, if you throw in your rears, it becomes a whole different level of difficulty. That's not to say that rear speakers will always mess the tuning, it's just that getting them right is extremely hard.

Okay, your problem in those small subwoofers will be phasing and vibration. As your rear speakers are facing towards each other, your sound waves will also interact differently than that of a pair of subwoofers side-by-side. If you plan on saving up on trunk space, I've seen a lot of 8" and 10" subwoofer installations on the passenger footwell. That might compromise your passenger's ability to stretch inside your car but truthfully, it's quite a good location.

A subwoofer, once tuned well, simply blends into the music. In installation, you want a rigid enclosure - one that doesn't vibrate much because every vibration is lost power (it cancels out the waves inside the enclosure having you end up with less output). Another thing is that you want your subwoofer to be vibration-friendly towards your cabin. Vibration is the reason why we hear our subwoofers at the back. If you've manage to listen a LnC car, you're bound to always hear the bass at the back. The reason for this is (aside from proper tuning) vibration due to subwoofer output but if you listen to a subwoofer in a cinema.. you'll be damned where to find it. This is because not only is it properly tuned to coincide with the other drivers but there's no physical cues to give away its location.

**jhnkvn** · August 24th, 2014 04:07 PM

Originally Posted by MonteroGLSV

Thanks also sir jhnkvn another question here.

do you recommend this kind of setup for monti?

Pillar modification cost is 6,000

set of focal 165fx, cost is 22k. This includes two tw, two midbass and two xover.

Well, pillar costs varies kasi. For example, kung kilala ka sa Banawe and suki mo yun installer pillar costs can go really low. Big-name shops charge around twice that because of their expertise - meron pa yan mga interior volume, how it is positioned, etc. and they will wrap it with the lining of your choice - want suede? pwede. want leather? pwede.

The Focal 165FX is widely lauded. No problems there naman ;) I simply hope that you like how Focal sounds - since you may like its competition's sound better. But if it's your first purchase, just go for it. For many, it raises their first bar (of standard) when it comes to sound quality in a car.

I will still remind people that the best SQ cars isn't one dependent on gears but it is of tuning. I attribute my car's sound with 80% tuning and 20% equipments.