House Constuction [Merged]

[travajante]

Sorry boss, what i meant by mighty bond is the vulcaseal and the likes. Haha, bakit nga ba mighty bond na-type ko! [emoji28]

Re-pipe properly. Use PPR instead of ųPVC, sir!

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[kabute13]

i have a low opinion of buried pvc pipes.
i would have used metal pipes, if they are to be buried under concrete. but that's just ancient me.

there is pvc pipe glue. it's been over 5 years on my un-buried pvc...
but you'd still have to bakbak the wall to get at the segment or joint to repair.

the joint is not buried but the pipe segments are. So the elbow/joint cannot be taken off without cutting the pipes. I’m thinking if there is a way to re-glue the joint from the outside.

but yes, i should have used metal pipes on that. [emoji22] and its just now that i realized that the piping layout was poorly done.

No half-arsed job for vital plumbing, sir. Redo em in PPR.


Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

some suggested the CPVC instead.

haaaay... now thinking of total relayout of that piping portion. which will mean lots of chipping job. [emoji22]

[travajante]

the joint is not buried but the pipe segments are. So the elbow/joint cannot be taken off without cutting the pipes. I’m thinking if there is a way to re-glue the joint from the outside.

but yes, i should have used metal pipes on that. [emoji22] and its just now that i realized that the piping layout was poorly done.



some suggested the CPVC instead.

haaaay... now thinking of total relayout of that piping portion. which will mean lots of chipping job. [emoji22]

Water supply? Pressurized Skip GI. At least PPR. No corrosion, no glue....just fusion welds.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[dr. d]

in my opinion, re-glueing from the outside is a temporary fix. it will re-leak.

non-metal pipes are easier to work with, than metal ones.
you can easily shorten them, then lengthen them, with considerably less effort than if they were metal. the only limitation would be the space around it.
but i ask, why did it leak? my theory is, it's mobile, and the albeit little movement it endures, has, over the years, loosened or cracked the adhesive.
maybe after it is repaired, you can do something to prevent it from moving?

[papi smith]

Masters, I would like to seek your expert opinion again.

Re my roof truss.

The plan calls for 2.5"x2.5"x6mm angle bar for bottom chord, 2"x2"x6mm top chord and 2"x2"x5mm for webbings, and doubled or back to back (2L indicated on the plan), each truss is 2.5 meters apart separated by square braces with the same angle bar sizes and 2L also.

Purlins at 60cm spacing, no size and thickness mentioned. Roof is asphalt shingles on 3/4" plywood undersheet. Slope is 4/12.

My engineer friend tells me that I can use the best available angle bars in our local hardwares which is 2"x2" with the best thickness I can find, i think they range from 3mm to 5mm.

Now, a contractor told me that I can actually use 1 length only (not back to back) and possibly 1.2mm thick purlins (I was thinking 1.6mm) to save on cost.

Any comments from our resident experts will be highly appreciated. Thank you.

[travajante]

Masters, I would like to seek your expert opinion again.

Re my roof truss.

The plan calls for 2.5"x2.5"x6mm angle bar for bottom chord, 2"x2"x6mm top chord and 2"x2"x5mm for webbings, and doubled or back to back (2L indicated on the plan), each truss is 2.5 meters apart separated by square braces with the same angle bar sizes and 2L also.

Purlins at 60cm spacing, no size and thickness mentioned. Roof is asphalt shingles on 3/4" plywood undersheet. Slope is 4/12.

My engineer friend tells me that I can use the best available angle bars in our local hardwares which is 2"x2" with the best thickness I can find, i think they range from 3mm to 5mm.

Now, a contractor told me that I can actually use 1 length only (not back to back) and possibly 1.2mm thick purlins (I was thinking 1.6mm) to save on cost.

Any comments from our resident experts will be highly appreciated. Thank you.

It's a bit of a challenge to shoot in the dark. Lemme give it a humble shot. I presume the roof design is a continuous gable. You can save on your truss components by shifting to scissors over those w/ horizontal bottom chords. You'd gain headroom, too, in case you'd need attic space later.
Truss spacing/purlin length are ideally kept sub 4m. to prevent roof deflections. C-Purlins, ideally 2x4x2mm. 1.8, the thinnest. I wouldn't compromise purlin thickness. Your 2.5m spacing is more than ok.
Purlin spacing: 1st-2nd is 22" from face of 1st purlin to center of 2nd. It's for end overhang. Succeeding purlins are 24" OC. Don't use mm as commercial substrate board dimensions are in English units, 4'x8'.
For no gutter app, 1st purlin is best angled normal(90°)to the roof slope to keep drips off them. Cleaner longer. A vertically installed fascia will be prone to rain streaks. Color em darker to hide stains better.
Substrate: 18mm A-grade phenolic boards will be way superior to local plywood. This is a vital component of shingle roofing.
Shingles, go laminated & AR(algae resistant). IKO is still made in North America. Owens would now be asian. Opt for darker colors if you wish to retain the 'new' longer. The light ones will show dirt & earlier aging. Minimum slope would be 15°. Use fully covered metal drip edges, not open ones, to protect phenolic board ends.
Don't scrimp on roofing, plumbing & electricals. I'd look for savings elsewhere, sir. Just my 2cents. Hope this helps.[emoji120]


Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[papi smith]

Hi Sir Travs, yes I think it is what you may call a continuous gable or commonly referred to as dos aguas. With 1 gable as firewall and the other end hipped as required by the developer, and no rain gutters.

I will ask my contractor regarding shifting to scissor type, but this may need re-evaluation oof structural design.

As to purlins thickness, I will try to get the thickest available in the local hardware.

I was thinking marine plywood substrate, is phenolic better? Actually, the dilemma here is the availability of good quality materials as a result of bad industry practice. What I thought of before as substandard being due solely to low quality materials is now actually a result of cost cutting by downgrading specs by contractors and probably even by the owners themselves.

As to shingles, I may go for Multi Line as supplier as they provide warranty and have been in the industry for at least 20 years to my knowledge. They carry certainteed brand.

My most concern now, is downgrading my bottom chord from 2.5" to 2" and thickness from 6mm to 4mm but still using 2 lengths per truss, as this are the readily available specs in the hardware.

I could stick to specs by sourcing from steelmax, but the cost of materials alone is almost double. I am thinking along the lines of value engineering, as I have often heard the comment of over design of my plans.

Your thoughts Sir Travs? Thank you very much for your advise!

[travajante]

Hi Sir Travs, yes I think it is what you may call a continuous gable or commonly referred to as dos aguas. With 1 gable as firewall and the other end hipped as required by the developer, and no rain gutters.

I will ask my contractor regarding shifting to scissor type, but this may need re-evaluation oof structural design.

As to purlins thickness, I will try to get the thickest available in the local hardware.

I was thinking marine plywood substrate, is phenolic better? Actually, the dilemma here is the availability of good quality materials as a result of bad industry practice. What I thought of before as substandard being due solely to low quality materials is now actually a result of cost cutting by downgrading specs by contractors and probably even by the owners themselves.

As to shingles, I may go for Multi Line as supplier as they provide warranty and have been in the industry for at least 20 years to my knowledge. They carry certainteed brand.

My most concern now, is downgrading my bottom chord from 2.5" to 2" and thickness from 6mm to 4mm but still using 2 lengths per truss, as this are the readily available specs in the hardware.

I could stick to specs by sourcing from steelmax, but the cost of materials alone is almost double. I am thinking along the lines of value engineering, as I have often heard the comment of over design of my plans.

Your thoughts Sir Travs? Thank you very much for your advise!

Scissor conversion shouldn't be an obstacle. What's the truss span, sir?
Phenolic boards come in different quality levels. They resist moisture better. Choose the best ones your budget could allow. Plywood these days are crap, sad to say. Seal the joints w/ PU sealant as an extra measure, not a must.
Shingles come in different classes. There are 15, 20, 30, 50yr warranties. Cap the firewall properly w/ inverted J instead of embedded L. We usually clad the exterior firewall w/ pre-painted long span metal roof sheets or aluminum cladding for better aesthetics. This will save you repetitive waterproofing maintenance migraines. Again, just my 2cents, sir.[emoji4]

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[papi smith]

The house is 8.5m x 10m, truss span is 9m across the 8.5m probably to include overhang. 5 pcs truss will be divided on the 10m span, thus a spacing of 2.5m each.

Yes, I will do the inverted J flashing, Multi Line did the same thing to my neighbor.

Thank you Sir Travs. [emoji8]

[travajante]

The house is 8.5m x 10m, truss span is 9m across the 8.5m probably to include overhang. 5 pcs truss will be divided on the 10m span, thus a spacing of 2.5m each.

Yes, I will do the inverted J flashing, Multi Line did the same thing to my neighbor.

Thank you Sir Travs. [emoji8]

You can do 4 trusses instead of 5. 10m/3(3.333m) purlin lengths. Under 8.5m between truss supports should yield you smaller members. Seek your designer. He should be able to reduce sections w/ scissor conversion, sir.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk