Remote bypass oil filtration

[dvldoc]

Actually fleetguard microglass offers higher dirt holding capcity and higher flow over the treated cellulose. The Stratapore which is the multi layer one is even better. That's the one I'm using for my bypass set up. Filter like Pure one and others that use cellulose sythetic mix tend to have the flow issues in cold climates with heavier oils.

All fleetguards have the same center pipe design, fakes do not. I guess you can always sell the rest of them to some other Navara guys.

[dvldoc]

Great article for you oil heads.

http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

[locoroco777]

couple of questions guys, the filter things are quite new to me...

Whats a Microglass? and what are its advantages? why can it withstand 20k kms on synthetic? is this available on all FG filter sizes?

second why does one of the filters posted has some sort of a plug on its bottom end? what does it do?

TIA....

[dagol]

Rotella dino or T6 sythetic if you can get it there, To me is some of the best oil out there, it always comes back great on EOA for wear protection.

Shell is marketing their new CJ-4/SM oil as "Triple Protection," meaning it provides enhanced qualities for engine wear, soot control and engine cleanliness. Shell's Rotella website indicates that on-road testing confirms the new Triple Protection technology produces better anti-wear characteristics than their existing CI-4+ rated Rotella oil. This is achieved despite a lower zinc and phosphorus additive level as called for by the API CJ-4 specification. (The 15W-40 Rotella T with Triple Protection oil has approximately 1200 ppm of zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorus at the time of manufacture.

http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...rotella_t6.pdf

Rotella is ment for Fleet service vehicles therefor offers higher protection, I have a turbo diesel vehicle there, my not so little Nissan Elgrand and I love the thing and since they are rare I want to keep it running for years to come even when I get a second vehicle when I get back there.

As far as a oil catch can, (one of the most important mods you'll ever do on a diesel heck even on a gas vehicle) It's simple. You would be surprised how much oil gets reciculated back into your intake manifold, it fouls things like sensors as well.

Here's a few sites to give you a ideal of how to make one.
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...iy-nozzle.html

http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.p...-Oil-Catch-Can

This is a cheap on that also works well.
http://forums.overlander.com.au/view...c2ba129f05f5e9

I use a air compressor one myself, But if you want it to be super efficient add a piece of steel wool or foam, you will catch much more than with the little filter that comes with it. I removed min and stuck in a block of foam.

I have been making these for friends here out of inline water strainers, They actually seem the best. Just put some steel wool and foam and it works like a champ, plus cost about 15USD total. These to me are the best to use plus they look good under the hood. You could add a drain at the bottom but I just unscrew them and empty it. Just add your hose barb fittings and your ready to role. These have a 100 mesh filter already in them.

I want to apologize for the bad words ive said to you.I didnt know that you are a foreigner.All i thought is that you are a Filipino that migrated in US who pretended of not knowing tagalog.Then when i saw your picture with a gun,i got pissed off immediately cause i hate violence.I thought you are a half filipino half american.Im really sorry man.Thanks for being patient despite me being cruel.

[dvldoc]

I want to apologize for the bad words ive said to you.I didnt know that you are a foreigner.All i thought is that you are a Filipino that migrated in US who pretended of not knowing tagalog.Then when i saw your picture with a gun,i got pissed off immediately cause i hate violence.I thought you are a half filipino half american.Im really sorry man.Thanks for being patient despite me being cruel.

Obliviously you need to go a lot further than that my friend, You got a problem with OFW's, My wife is one, You got a problem with mix race people my kids will be that, you got a problem with military, You got a problem with military we all go to war these days (I'm medical I save lives) , and you have a problem with facts put in front of you on this subject matter with your totally inaccurate counter points and non-sense comments and you have a problem with people who hold any type of certification or degree, it seems you can't believe they can do that and put them down.

Come to terms with all of that and I might be good with it not to mention the rest of the board members that had to put up with this stuff..

Anyways back to what I do best, and that's answer tech questions. Because clearly I know my stuff. Feel free to disagree with anything I state but back it up with facts, like tech docs, studies, pictures ect.

[dvldoc]

couple of questions guys, the filter things are quite new to me...

Whats a Microglass? and what are its advantages? why can it withstand 20k kms on synthetic? is this available on all FG filter sizes?

second why does one of the filters posted has some sort of a plug on its bottom end? what does it do?

TIA....

It's availible in some sizes mostly the more common ones, The 3/4 16 bolt patter on like what 12VDC has and many larger sizes that will not fit your standard car. I will get you part numbers and sizes later one today. It's like 5:22AM right now lol.

Cellulose (paper) is the most common natural media material some use strait paper some have chemicaly treated paper some have a mix of paper and sythetic media.

Synthetic media, though not as common, may be made from glass or various polymers. Fleetguard uses microglass. Then also a multi layered filtration media called Stratapore.

Cellulose media is older technology used when high efficiency or long term filtration is not the main concern. Due to volumes used, cellulose is the most inexpensive media with which to build a filter Cellulose fibers are made of wood pulp and are irregular in shape. Cellulose fibers are larger than synthetics fibers. These two factors cause high restriction in cellulose media.

Cellulose media must be coated with binders (resins) to hold the fibers in place. These binders can break down with extended use, causing media failure. (This is why cheap filters with no treated media are so bad)

Despite their drawbacks, cellulose media is still the choice of many Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM)

Fiberglass media was the first high efficiency/low restriction media used in filtration Cummins Filtration was the first company to develop a glass fiber media for use in an engine lube system. This product was named “Microglass”

Microglass media has a much greater capacity and efficiency than a comparable cellulose, yet has a much lower restriction The lower restriction is because the fibers are smaller in diameter than cellulose and are round in cross section.

These small round fibers allow for more pores per unit area Since these pores are smaller than a comparable cellulose, glass medias have much better efficiency Since there are many more pores, glass medias have a much greater capacity

Again, because the fibers are smooth and round, they allow viscous fluids to flow over them more easily than rough cellulose fibers, providing for lower restriction across the filter Since glass does not absorb water, Microglassis not affected by water as is cellulose media.

The latest generation of synthetic media is StrataPore Made using a meltblown process, polymers are used as a base material rather than glass StrataPore is a patented media developed by Cummins Filtration StrataPore has a micron range from 2-25 microns absolute depending on application.

StrataPore, like glass media, has straight, round fibers that allow for high efficiency and high capacity while maintaining low restriction Unlike glass, these fibers are continuous from one end of the filter to the other.

Since these fibers are extruded in a molten state, they stick together as the StrataPore media is formed This eliminates the need for resins such as those used in cellulose and glass media.

Also like glass, StrataPore is a layered media This is where the similarities end Unlike glass, all of the layers of StrataPore are used in the filtration process

With each layer of StrataPore being a separate filter, the layers have a progressively smaller micron rating. This gives StrataPore a gradient density.

The layers of StrataPore are then ultrasonically welded together Used in Air, Coolant, Fuel and Lube applications, StrataPore may have up to five layers and is easily customized Only filters with the StrataPore logo contain StrataPore media

[dvldoc]

The part numbers for microglass/sythetic media filters that will work for most are these.

The LF3487 will fit anything with the 3/4 16 thread, like Navara, all ford 2.5 TD, All TD27 engines and most TD42's ect ect. You can look back at my post for what cars fit this don't feel like listing them all because it's pretty long.

4m40 and related engines will fit the LF3918

Elgrand and related vehicles will fit the LF3788.

All GM 4CLY and 6cly engines will fit the LF3554.

That's pretty much all for sythetic media version that will work there.

The LF3947 is the Stratapore version of the LF3314 for 3/4 16 thread but is 7" tall by 3.8" OD. That's what i am using as my bypass filter.

Oh and the filter with the thing at the bottom is a fuel filter. All fleetguard will have a FF designation. That fitting is a drain because it's a fuel water separtor.

Basically the reason they are for extended drain intervals is because they hold more grams of particles, they filter down to 5 microns for most part some down to 2 so the oil is basically as clean as it's going to get. You use a good oil like Rotella T6 with high zinc additives or Mobil1 or basically any snythetic oil you can get that kind of mileage out of those filters and your oil. It's proven time and time again with engine oil testing.

The microglass version of the fleetguard are designed for 12000 miles / 20000klm or 2 years whichever comes first oil drain intervals. The Stratapore about 25000 miles / 40000klm or 3 years. (this is not believer or not it's just fact verified by engine oil testing)

http://royalpurplepowered.blogspot.c...ilable-in.html

Mobil1 also stands by the 12000mil/20000klm oil change interval with there full sythetic and there extended preformance filters which are also microglass.


In a bypass set up you can expect a lot more out of your drain interval. Don't really see this a really catching on in the Philippines because the adapters are not easily found or cheap. Here it's like 12usd for the remote filter adapter and about 15usd for the Remote filter mount/adaptor. plus less than 25usd for all the hose and fittings.

But if your doing your change every 10000k stick with the regular filters.

[locoroco777]

WOOOOOW...As in WOOOOOOW!

I was actually thinkin' bout a short quick answer...but you gave me an article!

Thanks a lot dvldoc!

just some follow up questions...

So when you say regular filters on 10k kms you mean the regular OEM is already sufficient? or still the regulars from fleetguard that are non microglass is still the best compared to the dealerships provide?

2nd is that if ever I find a microglass filter that fits my trucks engine (4m41) (Hopefully the LF3918 will fit)....How can I differentiate it from the regular ones physically?

In my case how does the LF3918 microglass differs from the regular LF3564 or the LF3830 for the 4m40/4m41 in appearance?

Sorry for asking too much about it...Because you probably know already that the majority of the sellers here are much more of merchants rather than helpful people... they will probably tell me that its a microglass but its not really the real thing....the box might say 3918 but really its a 3564 or a 3830 inside etc etc...
I just wanna be on the safe sure side...

[dagol]

Obliviously you need to go a lot further than that my friend, You got a problem with OFW's, My wife is one, You got a problem with mix race people my kids will be that, you got a problem with military, You got a problem with military we all go to war these days (I'm medical I save lives) , and you have a problem with facts put in front of you on this subject matter with your totally inaccurate counter points and non-sense comments and you have a problem with people who hold any type of certification or degree, it seems you can't believe they can do that and put them down.i dont have problem with OFW as i am also one.I live in europe with my family where thers plenty of different folks from different region in the world.Never had a fight with anybody.Thers plenty of people who are telling degrees in the philippines even without one.They even go abroad with fake certificates.Its a very common practice on 3rd world countries.Of course your wife will not tell that even if she knows.But thats ok as acquiring good education in the Philippines is almost impossible to most of the people.Almost i said because some manage to have a degree despite being poor.I am one thats why i made it here.

Come to terms with all of that and I might be good with it not to mention the rest of the board members that had to put up with this stuff..Actualy,this might be my last visit as my eyes are getting affected by constant exposure to computer and i feel being addicted to it.

Anyways back to what I do best, and that's answer tech questions. Because clearly I know my stuff. Feel free to disagree with anything I state but back it up with facts, like tech docs, studies, pictures ect.

Sorry,but i cant give more details on any evidence as i dont want to be exposed.Goodbye to all fellow tsikoteers,have fun.

[dvldoc]

WOOOOOW...As in WOOOOOOW!

I was actually thinkin' bout a short quick answer...but you gave me an article!

Thanks a lot dvldoc!

just some follow up questions...

So when you say regular filters on 10k kms you mean the regular OEM is already sufficient? or still the regulars from fleetguard that are non microglass is still the best compared to the dealerships provide?

2nd is that if ever I find a microglass filter that fits my trucks engine (4m41) (Hopefully the LF3918 will fit)....How can I differentiate it from the regular ones physically?

In my case how does the LF3918 microglass differs from the regular LF3564 or the LF3830 for the 4m40/4m41 in appearance?

Sorry for asking too much about it...Because you probably know already that the majority of the sellers here are much more of merchants rather than helpful people... they will probably tell me that its a microglass but its not really the real thing....the box might say 3918 but really its a 3564 or a 3830 inside etc etc...
I just wanna be on the safe sure side...

The filter will say microglass right on the filter itself. It will also be physically heaver than the regular cellulose version if the same size filter. only small fleetguards come in boxes the rest just fully wrapped in plastic. When I say small I mean like Fortunner filter size.

The stock filter is a combo unit the upgrade one is not. I rather keep the stock since it has the bypass element in it. Also the upgrade one is almost 7" long.

LF3830
Overall Height: 5.59 (142)
Largest OD: 3.68 (94)
ADBV: Yes
BPV Setting: 36.26 (250)
Thread Size: 1-12 UNF-2B

LF3564 (STANDARD REPLACMENT)
Overall Height: 5.63 (143)
Largest OD: 4.41 (112)
BPV Setting: 14.50 (100)
Thread Size: M26 X 1.5-6H INT

LF3918
Overall Height: 6.92 (176)
Largest OD: 3.66 (93)
Thread Size: M26 X 1.5

Stock 4m40 filter is different than every other one since it's a dual filter so 10000klm is easy for it even stock.

Stock everything else especially really cheap OEM like Nissan, Honda, Toyota, are good for only 5000k I would not push them much further. Stock Fleetguards are good for 10000k filter and oil changes since they hold 3 to 4 times more dirt without getting clogged.