Mazda 323 Troubleshooting Guide and Maintenance Reference

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Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
* Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken
* Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing
* Starter motor internal components worn or damaged

Engine starts but stops immediately
* Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel system
* Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle housing or inlet manifold
* Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages
* Fuel injection system faulty

Engine idles erratically
* Incorrectly adjusted idle speed and/or mixture settings
* Air filter element clogged
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses - carburettor models
* Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, surge tank, inlet manifold or associated hoses - fuel injected models
* Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
* Incorrectly adjusted valve clearances - B6 and E Series engines
* Faulty HLA Adjuster(s) - B3 and B5 engines
* Uneven or low cylinder compressions
* Camshaft lobes worn
* Timing belt/chain incorrectly tensioned

Engine misfires at idle speed
* Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
* Faulty spark plug HT leads
* Incorrectly adjusted idle mixture settings
* Incorrect ignition timing
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses - carburettor models
* Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, surge tank, inlet manifold or associated hoses - fuel injected models
* Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally
* Incorrectly adjusted valve clearances - B6 and E Series engines
* Faulty HLA Adjuster(s) - B3 and B5 engines
* Uneven or low cylinder compressions
* Disconnected, leaking or perished crankcase ventilation hoses

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Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
* Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages
* Fuel injection system faulty
* Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted
* Fuel filter choked
* Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low
* Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses - carburettor models
* Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, surge tank, inlet manifold or associated hoses - fuel injected models
* Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
* Faulty spark plug HT leads
* Dirty or incorrectly gapped contact breaker points - pre 1982 models
* Faulty condenser - pre 1982 models
* Uneven or low cylinder compressions

Engine hesitates on acceleration
* Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
* Carburettor accelerator pump faulty
* Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages
* Fuel injection system fault
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses - carburettor models
* Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, surge tank, inlet manifold or associated hoses - fuel injected models
* Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted

Engine stalls
* Incorrectly adjusted idle speed and/or mixture settings
* Blocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages
* Fuel injection system fault
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses - carburettor models
* Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, surge tank, inlet manifold or associated hoses - fuel injected models
* Fuel filter choked
* Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low
* Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted
* Throttle positioner/idle-up system (where fitted) incorrectly adjusted

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Engine lacks power
* Incorrect ignition timing
* Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted
* Timing belt/chain incorrectly fitted or tensioned
* Fuel filter choked
* Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low
* Uneven or low cylinder compressions
* Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses - carburettor models
* Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, surge tank, inlet manifold or associated hoses - fuel injected models
* Brakes binding
* Clutch slipping
* Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect

Engine backfires
* Ignition timing incorrect
* Timing belt/chain incorrectly fitted or tensioned
* Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses - carburettor models
* Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, surge tank, inlet manifold or associated hoses - fuel injected models

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
* Low oil level or incorrect grade
* Faulty oil pressure transmitter (sender) unit
* Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump
* High engine operating temperature
* Oil pressure relief valve defective
* Oil pick-up strainer clogged

Engine runs-on after switching off
* Idle speed excessively high
* Faulty fuel cut off solenoid - carburettor models
* Excessive carbon build-up in engine
* High engine operating temperature

Engine Noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or under load
* Ignition timing incorrect
* Incorrect grade of fuel
* Vacuum leak at the carburettor, inlet manifold or associated hoses - carburettor models
* Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, surge tank, inlet manifold or associated hoses - fuel injected models
* Excessive carbon build-up in engine
* Worn or damaged distributor or other ignition system component
* Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted

Whistling or wheezing noises
* Leaking inlet manifold or carburettor gasket - carburettor models
* Leaking inlet manifold or throttle housing/surge tank gasket - fuel injected models
* Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe to manifold joint
* Leaking vacuum hose
* Blowing cylinder head gasket

Tapping or rattling noises
* Incorrect valve clearances - B6 and E Series engines
* Faulty HLA Adjuster(s) - B3 and B5 engines
* Worn valve gear or camshaft
* Worn timing chain or tensioner - E Series engines
* Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc.)

Knocking or thumping noises
* Worn big end bearings (regular heavy knockings, perhaps less under load)
* Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load)
* Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)
* Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc.)

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2) Cooling System

Overheating
* Insufficient coolant in the system
* Thermostat faulty
* Radiator core blocked or grille restricted
* Electric cooling fan or thermoswitch faulty
* Pressure cap faulty
* Water pump drivebelt worn, or incorrectly adjusted
* Ignition timing incorrect
* Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit
* Air lock in cooling system

Overcooling
* Thermostat faulty
* Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit

External coolant leakage
* Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips
* Radiator core or heater matrix leaking
* Pressure cap faulty
* Water pump seal leaking
* Boiling due to overheating
* Core plug leaking

Internal coolant leakage
* Leaking cylinder head gasket
* Cracked cylinder head or cylinder bore

Corrosion
* Infrequent draining or flushing
* Incorrect antifreeze mixture or incorrect type

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3) Fuel and exhaust system

Excessive fuel consumption
* Air filter element dirty
* Carburettor worn or incorrectly adjusted
* Choke mechanism incorrectly adjusted or choke sticking - carburettor models
* Ignition timing incorrect
* Tyres underinflated

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
* Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections
* Carburettor float chamber flooding

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
* Leaking exhaust system
* Leaking, corroded, or damaged silencers or pipe
* Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact

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4) Clutch

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
* Broken clutch cable - cable operated clutch
* Low hydraulic fluid level - hydraulically operated clutch
* Incorrect clutch cable adjustment
* Air in the hydraulic system
* Broken clutch release bearing or fork
* Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
* Incorrect clutch cable adjustment
* Incorrect clutch pedal adjustment
* Clutch disk sticking on gearbox input shaft splines
* Clutch disc sticking on flywheel or pressure plate
* Faulty pressure plate assembly
* Gearbox input shaft seized in crankshaft spigot bearing
* Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed)
* Incorrect clutch cable adjustment
* Incorrect clutch pedal adjustment
* Hydraulic fluid level too high
* Clutch disc linings excessively worn
* Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease
* Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring

Judder as clutch is engaged
* Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease
* Clutch disc linings excessively worn
* Clutch disc cable sticking or frayed
* Clutch master or opening cylinder piston sticking
* Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring
* Worn or loose gearbox mountings
* Clutch disc hub or gearbox input splines worn

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
* Worn clutch release bearing
* Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes
* Faulty pressure plate assembly
* Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken
* Broken clutch disc cushioning springs

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5) Manual Gearbox

Noisy in neutral when engine running
* Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent when clutch pedal released but not when depressed)
* Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent when clutch pedal depressed less when released)

Noisy in one particular gear
* Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth

Difficulty engaging gears
* Clutch fault
* Worn or damaged gear linkage
* Incorrectly adjusted gear linkage
* Worn synchronizer units

Jumps out of gear
* Worn or damaged gear linkage
* Incorrectly adjusted gear linkage
* Worn synchronizer units
* Worn selector forks

Vibration
* Lack of oil
* Worn bearings

Lubricant leaks
* Leaking differential output oil seal
* Leaking housing joint
* Leaking input shift oil seal

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6) Automatic transmission

Note Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.

Fluid leakage
* Automatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil which can easily be blown onto the transmission by air flow.
* To determine the source of a leak, first remove all the built up dirt and grime from transmission housing and surrounding areas using a degreasing agent or by steam cleaning. Drive the vehicle at a low speed so air flow will not blow the leak from its source. Raise and support the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. The following are common areas of leakage
(a) Oil Pan
(b) Dipstick tube
(c) Transmission to oil cooler pipes/unions

Transmission blown or has burned smell
* Transmission fluid low or needs renewal

General gear selection problems
* The following are common problems which may be caused by poorly adjusted linkage:
(a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral
(b) Indicator on gear selector level pointing to a gear other than the one actually being used
(c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral
(d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator pedal fully depressed
* Low transmission fluid level
* Incorrect selector mechanism adjustment
* Incorrect kickdown switch adjustment

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park or Neutral
* Incorrect starter/inhibitor switch adjustment
* Incorrect selector mechanism adjustment

Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears
* There are many problem causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with one possibility - fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid. Correct the fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists, professional help will be necessary.

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7) Driveshafts

Clicking and knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full lock)
* Lack of velocity joint lubricant
* Worn outer constant velocity joint

Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
* Worn inner constant velocity joint
* Bent or distorted driveshaft

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8) Braking system

Note Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, the front wheel alignment is correct and the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
* Worn, defective, damaged, or contaminated front or rear brake pads/shoes on one side
* Seized or partly seized front or rear brake caliper/wheel cylinder piston
* A mixture of brake pad/shoe lining materials fitted between sides
* Brake caliper mounting bolts loose
* Worn or damage steering or suspension components
* Faulty dual proportioning valve

Noise (grinding or high pitched squeal) when brakes applied
* Brake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal backing
* Excessive corrosion of brake disk or drum (May be apparent after the vehicle has been standing for some time)
* Foreign object (stone chipping etc.) trapped between brake disc and splash shield

Excessive brake pedal travel
* Inappropriate rear brake self-adjust mechanism
* Faulty master cylinder
* Air in hydraulic system
* Faulty vacuum servo unit

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
* Air in hydraulic system
* Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses
* Master cylinder mounting nuts loose
* Faulty master cylinder

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
* Faulty vacuum servo unit
* Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
* Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure
* Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder pistons
* Brake pads or brake shoes incorrectly fitted
* Incorrect grade of brake pads or brake shoes fitted
* Brake pads or brake shoe linings contaminated

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
* Excessive run-out or distortion of front discs or rear drum/discs
* Brake pad or brake shoe linings worn
* Brake caliper or rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose
* Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings

Brakes binding
* Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder pistons
* Incorrectly adjusted hand brake mechanism or linkage
* Faulty master cylinder

Rear wheels locking under normal braking
* Rear brake shoe lining contaminated
* Faulty dual proportioning valve