Dial type vs. Pen type tire gauge

[bloowolf]

My old pen type that I got as a promo item from Shell ages ago (15 years or so) & my new dial type from Ace. It is all metal and the intake port is straight. Difference is around 1 psi.

[papi smith]

Di ko binasa lahat ng pages, pero siguro enough to note that both do well and that what's more important is that it's calibrated.

But how do we calibrate? I have a buffalo brand pen type gauge and it is -4 psi off both the gas station's built in gauge and a digital one that the gas boy used. So are theirs' calibrated accurately or just coincidentally had the same reading? Anyway, on my 30 psi requirement, i put 32 psi with my guage just so I have a 7% buffer for under inflation and if the others are correct, then I have 36 psi which is being 20% over inflated.

[red_one]

In my case, same ang reading ng Digital Tire Gauge ko (which I posted in previous page) sa binili kong Automatic Digital Tire Inflator.

With the Automatic Digital Tire Inflator, I just preset my desired PSI and it will fill the tire to the target PSI and automatically stop when done. It has backlit LCD display and shows the tire pressure in real time.

[oj88]

I have an Accutire digital tire gauge I ordered online (Amazon.com: Accutire MS-4021B Digital Tire Pressure Gauge: Automotive)

[papi smith]

guapo sir red one, saan at magkano po mabibili yan?

[red_one]

guapo sir red one, saan at magkano po mabibili yan?

You can order here:

D3 Technologies

https://www.facebook.com/d3techph/

SMS or Call: 0917-677-5587
Viber or WhatsApp: 0916-761-1920

[TireWhisperer23]

The biggest difference, I feel, between 'stick'(plunger) and clock/dial tire gauges, is technique.

Make sure both the gauge end and the tire valve are clean and free of crud, and seat the gauge firmly to the tire valve.

Repeat if necessary, especially if you hear air hissing by. Milton(USA) still makes among the best quality sticks, and they're always no more than 1psi off from my dial kits.

I find the stick/ plunger to have one(slight) advantage: Being only 4-5inches long, it can provide a more direct read of air pressure, compared to those dial gauges which have 12-16 inches of hose with the tire chuck at the other end. You 'donate' a bit more air from your tire with one of those, vs with a stick gauge.

While plungers are built mostly on the same principle(plastic or metal scale inside an internal diaphragm inside a metal body), dials can employ a variety of configurations, based partly on cost.

There's the coil-spring dial gauge mentioned previously, and something called a Bourdon tube design(named after its inventor).

Recall the party whistle you blew on at birthday parties, where a long paper or plastic banner unrolled from the whistle when blown into. That is exactly how the Bourdon principle works!

In a Bourdon pressure (tire or other purpose) gauge, air, or steam, pressurizes - and attempts to straighten - a curved brass metal tube inside, which is by calibrated gears linked to the gauge pointer. The pointer then rotates up to the indicated pressure, in whatever scale(kp, PSI, kg) is required.

More expensive gauges, like the Longacre brand I use back in the U.S., also employ a dampening system of which I don't fully understand, but is cool to see the pointer sweep slowly up to the indicated pressure, then slowly return to zero after dumping the reading(pressing the air bleed button). If you have PHP3,000 laying around, you can look up Longacre Racing or Intercomp, and buy one of their tire gauges. You'll never second guess tire pressures again.

[Ry_Tower]

The biggest difference, I feel, between 'stick'(plunger) and clock/dial tire gauges, is technique.

Make sure both the gauge end and the tire valve are clean and free of crud, and seat the gauge firmly to the tire valve.

Repeat if necessary, especially if you hear air hissing by. Milton(USA) still makes among the best quality sticks, and they're always no more than 1psi off from my dial kits.

I find the stick/ plunger to have one(slight) advantage: Being only 4-5inches long, it can provide a more direct read of air pressure, compared to those dial gauges which have 12-16 inches of hose with the tire chuck at the other end. You 'donate' a bit more air from your tire with one of those, vs with a stick gauge.

While plungers are built mostly on the same principle(plastic or metal scale inside an internal diaphragm inside a metal body), dials can employ a variety of configurations, based partly on cost.

There's the coil-spring dial gauge mentioned previously, and something called a Bourdon tube design(named after its inventor).

Recall the party whistle you blew on at birthday parties, where a long paper or plastic banner unrolled from the whistle when blown into. That is exactly how the Bourdon principle works!

In a Bourdon pressure (tire or other purpose) gauge, air, or steam, pressurizes - and attempts to straighten - a curved brass metal tube inside, which is by calibrated gears linked to the gauge pointer. The pointer then rotates up to the indicated pressure, in whatever scale(kp, PSI, kg) is required.

More expensive gauges, like the Longacre brand I use back in the U.S., also employ a dampening system of which I don't fully understand, but is cool to see the pointer sweep slowly up to the indicated pressure, then slowly return to zero after dumping the reading(pressing the air bleed button). If you have PHP3,000 laying around, you can look up Longacre Racing or Intercomp, and buy one of their tire gauges. You'll never second guess tire pressures again.

I've tried many before as well, you get what you pay for talaga whether dial type or pen. Basta maayos presyo, maayos ding gagana. The really expensive ones eh if you have money to spare. Judge by weight as well, hefty and well built ones are heavier that the mediocre plastic ones in genereal.

[dr. d]

on a same-cost pen versus dial,
which design is more reliable out of the box?

[12vdc]

I use pen because its the most handy and cheap, I'd double or triple check anyway and the tyre pump comes in dial gauge for quick comparo.

Tyre pressure need not be soo accurate- even a margin of plus minus 10 percent is very acceptable, not unless you are on a race track or you have a worn tyre that can blow anytime and you just want to make use of its remaining tread life up to the point of getting bald.