audio set-up for beginners [continued]

[sientobente]

Good Day Chaps, I need your inputs on my setup. I am after imaging and soundstage. Car is a focus hatch. Being the only passenger/driver, I have grown tired of the bland stock audio setup. I am currently looking into the following components: 80prs (acquired), 10tw3 (acquired), ps 165 fx (still looking for a good price), then front door deadening (inner and outer walls).

Given that I would not be upgrading my battery/alternator, which amp would suffice my need? Do I need one? Can I use a pdx-v9 on my stock battery/alternator and not run into any problems if I am not an outrageously loud listener? Thanks to anyone who can chip in. :thankyou: Happy listening. Cheers!

Nice selection of gears! I'm using the 165fx, and the price is pretty much standard among all car audio shops. Some though charge for the installation, but some like my car audio installer Simple Sound will install it for free when you get the set from him. Since you have an HU that should be full-active capable, take advantage of it and use a 4ch amp(seps) and a mono amp(subs). Then use the time alignment feature of the HU to remove localization and improve the soundstage.

These new flax focals sound really different from the past. It now runs on the neutral to warm side. It also has a more pronounced midbass, even better than my previous K2Ps. Your stock alternator should also be fine since you won't really use power hungry subs.

[hypnos]

Nice selection of gears! I'm using the 165fx, and the price is pretty much standard among all car audio shops. Some though charge for the installation, but some like my car audio installer Simple Sound will install it for free when you get the set from him. Since you have an HU that should be full-active capable, take advantage of it and use a 4ch amp(seps) and a mono amp(subs). Then use the time alignment feature of the HU to remove localization and improve the soundstage.

These new flax focals sound really different from the past. It now runs on the neutral to warm side. It also has a more pronounced midbass, even better than my previous K2Ps. Your stock alternator should also be fine since you won't really use power hungry subs.

Thanks for the immediate response mate. I really appreciate it. Yep the performance of 165 fx is really otherwordly at its price. Any particular amp that you could point me to? Im not really looking for anything fancy, anything not power hungry, compact and would do the job. I am thinking of placing it under the driver seat. Is there such an amp that could drive both the seps and sub?

[sientobente]

Try to look for a 5-channel Class D amp. It should be more compact than it's class AB counterparts and is more efficient. The Phoenix Gold SD800.5 is one of them.

[jhnkvn]

Good Day Chaps, I need your inputs on my setup. I am after imaging and soundstage. Car is a focus hatch. Being the only passenger/driver, I have grown tired of the bland stock audio setup. I am currently looking into the following components: 80prs (acquired), 10tw3 (acquired), ps 165 fx (still looking for a good price), then front door deadening (inner and outer walls).

Given that I would not be upgrading my battery/alternator, which amp would suffice my need? Do I need one? Can I use a pdx-v9 on my stock battery/alternator and not run into any problems if I am not an outrageously loud listener? Thanks to anyone who can chip in. :thankyou: Happy listening. Cheers!

Do you need an amplifier?
Yes. While you can power your front components with the head unit, you can't with your subwoofer.

Can I use a pdx-v9 on my stock battery/alternator and not run into any problems if I am not an outrageously loud listener?
Yes. In fact, I highly recommend the Alpine PDX-V9 over any other amplifier locally at its price region. It's pricey locally so it would be best if you can parallel import one. If you want something better, the JL HD900/5 is expensive but it's an end-all amplifier. I actually wouldn't mind swapping amplifiers if I see one used and in need of a swap.

*Focal FX
It isn't really otherworldly. It's just good engineering which is why you pay for Focal. But for the price, there's actually a lot of others who is better on paper-specifications. The midbass isn't strong, it's just the highs are tamed thus the midbass is perceived as better

[hypnos]

Thanks sientobente. I will look for SD800.5's specs.

jhnkvn the HD900/5's specs seems better but its a bit out of my budget. Perhaps if there is a cheaper alternative for the 2-way seps, the savings could offset for the amp's cost.

Neverthess, your recommendations are highly considered. Thanks again.

[jhnkvn]

PG's SD line of amplifiers is a hit and miss before due to noise issues. While they have rectified this problem it's best to still have a warranty when going for those.

[sientobente]

Sayang, didn't know PG amps have those issues. Looks good though for the price.

Regarding the Focal 165FX, here is a comparison vs the K2P




165FX


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[sientobente]

Sorry, it was difficult to post a message with attachments using a cellphone. so regarding these 2 graphs, it is a comparison between the k2p(first graph) and the 165KR(2nd graph). We can see that there is a midbass hump on the 165KR which gives it an impression that it has a strong midbass, but looking at the tweeter performance, it drops off around 3-4khz which makes it tamer than the older focal speakers, but it extends up to 20khz which is wider than the k2p. This gives out a warmer sound with a sense of airiness.

The advantage though on the K2P is it is more hifi on it's measurements, seeing that it is more flat than the 165FX. To a listener, this may sound a bit more forward and leaner with the graph showing that it is more pronounced 1khz up.

[hypnos]

Would 165fx give more soundstage compared to a scandinavia 1 + HV 165?

[jhnkvn]

Actually, kung based sa graphs, I'll jump to the KR na. A flat response is most optimal because there's less "errors". You can always boost the midbass if ever din naman.

However, graphs tell just one side of the story. In those testing, usually soundproof anachoic chambers yan. But throw the speakers to a car and it gets an entirely different response naman.

Oh, and if you have a Scan + HV165, use those. In most 2-way applications, it isn't the midbass that's playing "catching up" but rather the tweeter. Having a large-format tweeter has a lot of advantages compared to small domed ones typical of car audio.