All New 2017 Mazda 3

[jojopad]

Have you tried other brands sir? Petron, Caltex or even Phoenix? Is Shell the best, in terms of your mileage? Just curious.

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The last time I used Petron and Caltex was 5 years ago. Carbon build up in the engine was bad for the 1st gen Mazda3. I prefer to stick with top tier gas brands from then on:


Why Top Tier Gas | Top Tier Gas

[kenken123]

The last time I used Petron and Caltex was 5 years ago. Carbon build up in the engine was bad for the 1st gen Mazda3. I prefer to stick with top tier gas brands from then on:


Why Top Tier Gas | Top Tier Gas

I see. I think i'll follow your advice good sirs. Sir Travs also PM'ed me this. If its better in the long run, then why not?

Is this also applicable for other cars? Or this is specifically for Mazda engines?

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[jojopad]

I see. I think i'll follow your advice good sirs. Sir Travs also PM'ed me this. If its better in the long run, then why not?

Is this also applicable for other cars? Or this is specifically for Mazda engines?

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It should be applicable to any type of cars as long as you use the right fuel octane rating. Subaru XV for example requires at least 93 octane while most 1.6 liter sedans can run on 91 octane.

I'm currently using V-Power for another 5 yo sedan which requires only 91 octane. Hopefully the carbon build up will not be as bad compared to the 1st gen M3.

[roblarg]

Yup, a bunch of cats loiter the ground floor parking haha. Also my parking space isn’t covered so gotta watch out for the harsh sun. Here’s a pic of mine

I've read somewhere here that most do not recommend a car cover. Unless you are in a similar situation like mine. You know, cats...

[travajante]

It should be applicable to any type of cars as long as you use the right fuel octane rating. Subaru XV for example requires at least 93 octane while most 1.6 liter sedans can run on 91 octane.

I'm currently using V-Power for another 5 yo sedan which requires only 91 octane. Hopefully the carbon build up will not be as bad compared to the 1st gen M3.

Carbon build-up is the inevitable sad truth for all DI engines. With the increasing concern about the environment, the simple combustion engine has now had so many complex tweaks that long term reliability is the collateral damage. PCV valves, EGRs, DI, DPFs, forced induction....All these do the environment good, but the engine HARM.
What measures can we watch & observe? Good Oil Catch Cans to collect blowby can help, but that's 1 more hardware to periodically check. Added cost & inconvenience are the reasons why we don't get this stock.
The use of Low NOACK volatility index Synthetic oils is vital.
What is the NOACK test? Amsoil explains....
"Originally developed and used in Europe, the NOACK volatility test determines how much weight an oil loses through volatilization. The more motor oil vaporizes, the thicker and heavier it becomes, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions. During the test, the subject oil is heated to 150°C for a specified period, causing the lighter oil molecules to boil off. The results are reported in the percentage, by weight, of the oil that evaporates. The lower the number, the better the oil resists volatilization."
Vaporization results in blow by. The PCV valve reintroduces this back into the intake to be reburnt during combustion. This adds to the buildup cause. Unlike the old days of port injection, there is no more fuel spray on the intake valves. The fuel there served as the cleanser.
0w oils will have a higher NOACK index. Stay away. Skyactiv for the tropics require the lower NOACK fully synthetic 5w-30, which is better.
And those Turbos combined w/ DI?...the perfect catalyst to speed the deposit process up.
I see no escape from walnut blasting for every DI engine. Let's just hope our Skys delay build-up as the its engineers claimed to have addressed.
Some have reintroduced port injection back in Dual Injection engines. They are slowly surfacing. This should address buildup better.....
Til then, let's just enjoy what we drive...& drive em farther, longer. Fewer cold starts/short trips are healthier for the engines & those who drive to destress.[emoji4] Carpe diem. Let tomorrow worry about itself.[emoji4]

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[jojopad]

Carbon build-up is the inevitable sad truth for all DI engines. With the increasing concern about the environment, the simple combustion engine has now had so many complex tweaks that long term reliability is the collateral damage. PCV valves, EGRs, DI, DPFs, forced induction....All these do the environment good, but the engine HARM.
What measures can we watch & observe? Good Oil Catch Cans to collect blowby can help, but that's 1 more hardware to periodically check. Added cost & inconvenience are the reasons why we don't get this stock.
The use of Low NOACK volatility index Synthetic oils is vital.
What is the NOACK test? Amsoil explains....
"Originally developed and used in Europe, the NOACK volatility test determines how much weight an oil loses through volatilization. The more motor oil vaporizes, the thicker and heavier it becomes, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions. During the test, the subject oil is heated to 150°C for a specified period, causing the lighter oil molecules to boil off. The results are reported in the percentage, by weight, of the oil that evaporates. The lower the number, the better the oil resists volatilization."
Vaporization results in blow by. The PCV valve reintroduces this back into the intake to be reburnt during combustion. This adds to the buildup cause. Unlike the old days of port injection, there is no more fuel spray on the intake valves. The fuel there served as the cleanser.
0w oils will have a higher NOACK index. Stay away. Skyactiv for the tropics require the lower NOACK fully synthetic 5w-30, which is better.
And those Turbos combined w/ DI?...the perfect catalyst to speed the deposit process up.
I see no escape from walnut blasting for every DI engine. Let's just hope our Skys delay build-up as the its engineers claimed to have addressed.
Some have reintroduced port injection back in Dual Injection engines. They are slowly surfacing. This should address buildup better.....
Til then, let's just enjoy what we drive. Carpe diem. Let tomorrow worry about itself.[emoji4]

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Hence, an engine maintenance newbie friendly approach would be to use top tier fuel with good engine cleaning additives like V-Power, and proper maintenance?

https://youtu.be/4WPfLnVuQyM

[travajante]

Hence, an engine maintenance newbie friendly approach would be to use top tier fuel with good engine cleaning additives like V-Power, and proper maintenance?

https://youtu.be/4WPfLnVuQyM

On DI engines, quality fuels w/ good additives & detergents still matter. They do help keep the injectors & the areas they hit clean & healthy.[emoji4]
Add good driving habits to proper maintenance & we'll all get to enjoy our cars better, longer.


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[dr_pido]

Update regarding the suspension problems previously mentioned.

For replacement:
1. Lower arm bushing
2. Shock insulator

Was advised as per the service advisor, if that will not eliminate the knocking sound, more parts may be replaced.?

[StockEngine]

age of vehicle? odometer?

plenty of mechanic videos regarding suspension...

learn something new..

https://youtu.be/FOk0tkGEWmA

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[dr_pido]

My affair w/ the hobo hatch is now on its 4th year. Outside the basic PMS, I've only replaced the batt & am on my 2nd set of brake pads. Low on maintenance, you might say...YES!!!
But, I must forewarn about gathering the discipline & the resistance to the temptation of modding....mine succumbed & crumbled countless times. It will be futile[emoji17]


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What brand of battery did you replace the OEM with? Where did you purchase it sir?