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July 22nd, 2017 10:27 AM #5001
Well whatever the manufacturer or casa recommends, it doesnt preclude you from practicing due diligence by inspecting the status of the oil by lifting that oil dip stick
A pitch black color for petrol engine is a telltale sign to replace the oil. That means the engine oil had gathered too much soot and prolonged use will be detrimental to your engine
Additionally, a slow moving oil once the dip stick is inverted is a sign of oil thickness. Thick oil is less efficient in reducing friction and calls for replacement to the benefit of your engine
Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tsikot Forums mobile appLast edited by kisshmet; July 22nd, 2017 at 10:36 AM.
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July 22nd, 2017 10:33 AM #5002
I typically follow a 6-month PMS interval for my D4D Innova. I do 98% daily Metro Manila commute. And if you know MM at rush hour, it qualifies as 'extreme' conditions... bumper-to-bumper, stop-&-go traffic, long idle times, heat-soaked powertrain, dusty conditions from all the road works every several hundred meters, etc. Nothing about MM is 'normal' unless you only drive during the wee hours of the morning.
I follow Toyota's recommendation of 1-yr OCI/ODI (fully-synthetic oil) and 6-mo oil filter change. With the EGR blocked, there's even less soot contaminating the engine oil so this works out as the best strategy for me.
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July 22nd, 2017 10:45 AM #5004
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July 22nd, 2017 10:58 AM #5005Not all oils are the same
but a simple basic rule.
If its mineral then change at least every 5k, mineral breaks down quicker than a semi or fully synthetic oil.
If its semi or fully Synthetic then anywhere from 7k to 10k.
Ive been servicing and changing oil on all my cars from V8 to 4cylinders for the last 30yrs and the key is to always have clean oil in your engine never run it over the required oil change. I never use fully synthetic as it some cases it can cause glazing inside some engines (not all) either mineral or a semi synthetic ive been using. But if mineral I only use Delvac mx which is good for my 2016 Dmax as long as you change oil regular. But im Using a semi synthetic Multi-Z oil now from dealership as its still under warrantee, but once warrantee expires I will either use delvac or Delo 400.
Ive never had any engine issues with any oil ive used provided its a known proven brand.
The perfect oil change is 200hrs!, I used to work as a driller in mining and all there diesels they would change every 200hrs because most of the time was spend on running the engines not driving. This is true for vehicles today you spend alot of time at the stop lights idling and even though your vehicle is not moving your engine is still running.
My Dmax has an hr engine running timer which goes on at engine start and goes off once engine is switched off. Once it hits 200hrs then the oil is changed even if the mileage is below the required amount. This is the best time to change the oil.
I dont believe in long oil changes even is using fully synthetic because the longer you leave the oil the longer all the dirt stays there regardless of oil brand.
Expensive oils do last longer but all oils will circulate dirt.
The reason why so many car manufacturers push for long oil changes is to get approval of those environmental people, thus getting more approval and ex-poser to sell more cars.
So no matter what oil you use the longer you leave it in your engine the longer the dirt will circulate inside your engine regardless if its Mobile 1 or just a simple mineral oil.
Most OEM oil filters dont work as good at around 10k so if your a 10k oil changer guy then at least change your oil filter at halfway at 5k or get an after market oil filter thats better than the OEM one..
Everyone has their own opinion on oils as you can see this post has been running for years! but this is what works for me.
I dont use any engine chips, blocked EGR or Catch can and Ive never had any issues with carbon build up so far.
One of the main causes for rapid carbon build up is not running engine on the HWY much, poor quality oil and cheap dirty fuel as well as not replacing fuel and air filters when needed.
Yes carbon will build up but it should not be an issue until well over 100k then you either clean up the build up or replace EGR or what other parts is needed. This will only have to be done once in the life of your engine by this time you would have probably sold it.
This was my 2cents worth
God bless you All
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July 22nd, 2017 12:08 PM #5006
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July 22nd, 2017 01:22 PM #5007
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July 22nd, 2017 01:29 PM #5008
LOL. it's not about the countryit's about DRIVING CONDITIONS! there are countries that are hotter, or w/ worse traffic than the PH city you're now in
again, read the manual to be guided. SEVERE usually means repeated short trips (not enough time to get engine hot enough), idling a lot (i.e. engine turns/wears but ODO doesn't tick), etc
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July 22nd, 2017 02:11 PM #5009
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July 22nd, 2017 02:22 PM #5010
Let me just say that the operational term used in most manual is "OR". That said, if you encounter any of the said conditions under "Extreme", then you follow the maintenance schedule for it. You don't necessarily have to satisfy everything for it to be considered extreme.