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  1. Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    553
    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by dr. d View Post
    get an air-cooled VW. heh heh.
    and don't all engines have to be grounded? otherwise, there won't be no spark, and the glow plugs won't glow..?
    "Grounded", in colloquial terms refer to stray electrical currents that lead to electrolysis.

    If only to be more accurate, your if engine is improperly grounded you're going to end up with an anodic process going on between different metal parts.

  2. Join Date
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by EVO-V View Post
    "Grounded", in colloquial terms refer to stray electrical currents that lead to electrolysis.

    If only to be more accurate, your if engine is improperly grounded you're going to end up with an anodic process going on between different metal parts.
    "Grounded" can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on what we are talking about.
    i am confident that the gasoline engine won't run if there are no electrical currents running thru it, as measured by the multimeter..
    perhaps what you mean is, the engine should be well-grounded, to avoid electrolysis from stray currents..
    heck, when your engine is poorly grounded, the radiator is going to be the least of your concerns.. a poorly-grounded engine won't run well, won't charge the battery well.. it might even interfere with the electronic entertainment systems (heaven forbid!)..
    Last edited by dr. d; October 10th, 2012 at 05:59 PM.

  3. Join Date
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by dr. d View Post
    "Grounded" can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on what we are talking about.
    i am confident that the gasoline engine won't run if there are no electrical currents running thru it, as measured by the multimeter..
    perhaps what you mean is, the engine should be well-grounded, to avoid electrolysis from stray currents..
    heck, when your engine is poorly grounded, the radiator is going to be the least of your concerns.. a poorly-grounded engine won't run well, won't charge the battery well.. it might even interfere with the electronic entertainment systems..
    Technically if one needs to be more precise, the engine has to be earthed properly.

    And since we're being specific here, though it is the nature of the coolant, being electrically conductive, and the differences in the activity of metals in the cooling system that will not tolerate a higher amount of stray voltages. It does require quite a bit of voltage (relative to the mass of the materials in the system) to get the galvanic process started.

    Readings on your multimeter on voltage setting should read at practically 0.0 when the engine is shut off. Though it isn't unusual to have a 0.1V reading, anything above that level is cause for alarm.

    At the risk of being more esoteric, there are instances wherein the coolant chemistry changes well enough that in itself causes the galvanic reaction to begin. This normally occurs when incompatible additives are added to the mixture causing a shift in the ph of the coolant. This is when one would need to flush their system and rinse it as well as one possibly could.

    Note that this tends to happen more with aluminum radiators. So be wary in tampering with the stock mixture.

  4. Join Date
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by dr. d View Post
    heck, when your engine is poorly grounded, the radiator is going to be the least of your concerns.. a poorly-grounded engine won't run well, won't charge the battery well..

    OT:

    I second that.

  5. Join Date
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by lowslowbenz View Post
    I second that.
    If your radiator is aluminum, the battery would be the lesser of your worries. That's going to be a costly replacement supposing you don't end up overheating and in need of an overhaul.

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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by EVO-V View Post
    If your radiator is aluminum, the battery would be the lesser of your worries. That's going to be a costly replacement supposing you don't end up overheating and in need of an overhaul.
    What would be costly to replace?

  7. Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    #17
    i suddenly got a thought: why are we talking about earthing the engine well, when it's the radiator that is undergoing electrolysis? shouldn't we earth the radiator as well?

  8. Join Date
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by lowslowbenz View Post
    What would be costly to replace?
    The radiator (depending on your car) and perhaps a top overhaul. That and it can make for a really bad date.

    The radiator is normally just circuited to the engine via the coolant and its corroding because Aluminum is lower in the activity chain than that of other metals in the engine and has a relatively smaller mass in ratio to the surface areas exposed.

    Otherwise, its pretty isolated electrically especially if it also uses plastic tanks. Unless it has a sensor attached to it, and that's "grounded" or to avoid nitpicking confusion -the source of stray voltages.

  9. Join Date
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by EVO-V View Post
    The radiator (depending on your car) The radiator is normally just circuited to the engine via the coolant and its corroding because Aluminum is lower in the activity chain than that of other metals in the engine and has a relatively smaller mass in ratio to the surface areas exposed.
    So which would be a better radiator given the case above? Aluminum core or copper core

  10. Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    275
    #20
    *TS, well, your the one who's making it personal TS, sa mga post mo eh parang may galit ka. wala ba? i have no problem with evercool, thats why i dont create threads like what you did. and by the way, CHILL DUDE. im just stating the obvious.

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Sorry Evercool but we beg to differ.