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February 27th, 2013 10:45 AM #21Sir vin,
Sir miko was right, the clutch we're mentioning is the clutch which holds the radiator fan blades. Try manually rotating the fan with your hands (of course with the engine off), if there is no restriction at all or very minimal, then it is loose already. You might have to recharge it with silicon oil or replace.
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February 27th, 2013 11:24 AM #22
sa experience ko repalcement clutch fan is cheap compared to orig na para sa spefici vehicle pero malayo ang performance nila at itatagal...
mas makapit at accurate yung clutch fan na orig sa pag control ng silicon oil sa loob mechanism, thus mas makapit,, mas makapit clutch fan mas malamig... mas happy ang raditor at condenser...
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March 1st, 2013 12:36 PM #23
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March 1st, 2013 12:49 PM #24if the thread starter mentioned he usually checks his coolant level daily, then probably the silicone seating of his radiator cap is probably busted and corroded due to dirty radiator. In other words, it cannot keep the cooling system pressurized thus it loses a lot of coolant, hence, the overheat. IMHO, it is best for him to have his radiator cleaned, his engine block water galley undergo lavramon, change his radiator cap with a new one, recharge his fan clutch with silicone oil and finally a 50:50 or 60:40 distilled H2O-coolant mixture
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March 1st, 2013 12:51 PM #25
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March 1st, 2013 01:06 PM #26
it is not a smart idea to open your radiator cap daily. the manufacturer never intended for the owner/operator to break the seal every time. there will be a considerable wear and tear on the sealing surfaces between the radiator cap and the radiator neck. no car owners manual tells you to open it on a daily basis. maybe every oil change would be okay. annually, have the antifreeze checked for protection level, pressure test the cooling system and check the other related items like the fan clutch, radiator fan switch and relay, fan belt, etc. follow the vehicle owner's manual service intervals. your intentions are good but the results might be detrimental to the cooling system
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March 1st, 2013 04:23 PM #27
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March 1st, 2013 04:51 PM #28Sir vin,
I did own a Delica 2002 before and I would tell you, not having a manual is not a problem. Given the common 4D56T engine of our Delica's, most technicians are very familiar with it. And I bet given that jurrasic (but very reliable!) engine of Mitsu, in time, you can easily understand its basic maintenance.
I would say, until now, I really miss that truck!
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March 4th, 2013 03:14 PM #29Tap water is fine unless the turbidity in your area is very high.
Putting distilled water into your loop does nothing as it will become contaminated with the deposits already lining the engine. This is just uninformed anal retentiveness at work.
Just flush the engine properly during prep prior to refiling it with coolant and make sure you're not just sourcing your water from a well and mixing it with your coolant.
If you are still having problems with that practical notion just get pre-mixed coolants.
TS' ride is overheating for a host of reasons, supposing his radiator and adjunct subsystems have no leaks yet he is losing coolant, then the leak isn't one that drips but one that releases vapor.
Make sure that all seals are adequate, from the radiator cap, temp probes, hoses to the overflow tank.
But the fact that the rate of vaporization is so high means that the radiator is already problematic. Have that flushed or have it replaced depending on the level of corrosion.
And depending on the design of the radiator, if it has a plastic tank there's a good chance that micro-fissures have developed along the seal in contact with the header plate causing water loss.