Toyota Corolla 11th Generation Altis [Merged Threads]

[jut703]

Thanks. Parang gusto ko maniwala sa nabasa ko somewhere on this forum na mas matipid daw ang CVT compare to MT when it comes to highway?

The CVT really does have lower rpms at highway speeds (80 kph upward) compared to the MT. My MT hovers at 2000 rpm when traveling at 80 kph, 2600 rpm at 100 kph.

However, I've yet to see anyone hit 20 km/L with their CVT based on full tank computation. Di kasi ako nagtitiwala sa MID unless over 200+ km ang byahe. Nagkataon lang na yung trip ko, saktong 20 km/L yung MID and yung manual computation.

[timo07]

The CVT really does have lower rpms at highway speeds (80 kph upward) compared to the MT. My MT hovers at 2000 rpm when traveling at 80 kph, 2600 rpm at 100 kph.

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Yup. Saw my tacho below 2K rpm when doing 100kph. In city driving, I can sometimes see it playing between 1000 to 1500RPM. Kapag nangigil lang sa silinyador umaabot ng 2500.

[ian28]

Thanks sa reply..

[halowan]

Sir jut, dagdag ko lang, on the way home from Clark:

Attachment 28077

Went on for about half an hour of 80-100kmh driving then medyo boring na so medyo rumatrat na ng onte, ayun balik sa 17-18km/l at 120-140kph

Impressive! Is this from the reset of TRIP B? So you ran 33.2km on 21.3Km/L?

[jut703]

Impressive! Is this from the reset of TRIP B? So you ran 33.2km on 21.3Km/L?

33.2 km on 21.3 km/L means you used only 1.56L, which is very, very, very prone to error. The on-board computer isn't that accurate when you use less than 10L of fuel. Imagine, at 1.56L, if it was 1.75L (0.2L difference), it would already go down to 18.97 km/L.

Which is why I always advise that if you want to have conclusive proof that your car can really do a certain mileage, make sure to use up around 10L to have a lower margin of error.

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Impressive! Is this from the reset of TRIP B? So you ran 33.2km on 21.3Km/L?

33.2 km on 21.3 km/L means you used only 1.56L, which is very, very, very prone to error. The on-board computer isn't that accurate when you use less than 10L of fuel. Imagine, at 1.56L, if it was 1.75L (0.2L difference), it would already go down to 18.97 km/L.

Which is why I always advise that if you want to have conclusive proof that your car can really do a certain mileage, make sure to use up around 10L to have a lower margin of error.

[dp20]

Yung 19.1 km/L mo bro MID ba yan or full tank method talaga?

MID lang to sir, and very short trip lang talaga, from Clark back to Novaliches. Dun ko lang na-reset yung counter kase I forgot to do it on the way to Clark.

[halowan]

33.2 km on 21.3 km/L means you used only 1.56L, which is very, very, very prone to error. The on-board computer isn't that accurate when you use less than 10L of fuel. Imagine, at 1.56L, if it was 1.75L (0.2L difference), it would already go down to 18.97 km/L.

Which is why I always advise that if you want to have conclusive proof that your car can really do a certain mileage, make sure to use up around 10L to have a lower margin of error.

I see. Still impressive tho. I was about to get a 2.0V pero my friends changed my mind (Nakapag pa Retrofit, leather seats, headunit, mags na daw kasi ako under 100k. Well, they're right. Habol ko lang sana is the 2.0 engine ) . I'll try to do a Manila-Manaoag run kapag nakuha ko yung 1.6V this week and compare it kapag nakapag pa first 1k PMS na ako.

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33.2 km on 21.3 km/L means you used only 1.56L, which is very, very, very prone to error. The on-board computer isn't that accurate when you use less than 10L of fuel. Imagine, at 1.56L, if it was 1.75L (0.2L difference), it would already go down to 18.97 km/L.

Which is why I always advise that if you want to have conclusive proof that your car can really do a certain mileage, make sure to use up around 10L to have a lower margin of error.

I see. Still impressive tho. I was about to get a 2.0V pero my friends changed my mind (Nakapag pa Retrofit, leather seats, headunit, mags na daw kasi ako under 100k. Well, they're right. Habol ko lang sana is the 2.0 engine ) . I'll try to do a Manila-Manaoag run kapag nakuha ko yung 1.6V this week and compare it kapag nakapag pa first 1k PMS na ako.

[jut703]

MID lang to sir, and very short trip lang talaga, from Clark back to Novaliches. Dun ko lang na-reset yung counter kase I forgot to do it on the way to Clark.

Nova-Clark roundtrip would really give you good mileage, NLEX is the best place for an ecorun because it's not as hilly as SCTEX and traffic isn't as fast so you won't get so bored maintaining 75-80 kph. I'm sure you'd do over 20 km/L, but you really have to keep a steady foot.

Personally, I only did it once, just to see how low I can go, but I'd prefer getting only 14 km/L and driving at my preferred speed.

[jut703]

I see. Still impressive tho. I was about to get a 2.0V pero my friends changed my mind (Nakapag pa Retrofit, leather seats, headunit, mags na daw kasi ako under 100k. Well, they're right. Habol ko lang sana is the 2.0 engine ) . I'll try to do a Manila-Manaoag run kapag nakuha ko yung 1.6V this week and compare it kapag nakapag pa first 1k PMS na ako.

The Altis 2.0 is much quicker than the 1.6 CVT on a straight line, but unless you drive fast consistently, you won't really maximize it. The 1.6 can get you to 200 kph, it's just that the 2.0 gets there in a shorter amount of time.

For your upgrades, it'll cost over 100k if you want genuine leather. Haven't seen leather seat covers as good as the stock leather seats of the 2.0. Though personally I don't see the point of leather seats in a country as hot as ours - I mean, it's ok if it comes stock with the car, but to spend 40k just to get your butt burned when you leave your car in searing midday heat isn't my thing.

Rims will cost you around 50k, plus another 12k for lowering springs (or 40k for coilovers), then the retrofit will cost you 20-25k, plus another 10k if you wanna have LED DRLs like the 2.0. Not so familiar with the HU upgrade, but I was offered a Growl Audio HU for about 40k which already has an Android touch screen HU, TV Plus, backup camera, GPS, and so on. I personally went with the cheaper option of just buying a phone mount and using my smartphone as GPS, then my iPod for music.

Good luck and enjoy your Altis!

[halowan]

The Altis 2.0 is much quicker than the 1.6 CVT on a straight line, but unless you drive fast consistently, you won't really maximize it. The 1.6 can get you to 200 kph, it's just that the 2.0 gets there in a shorter amount of time.

For your upgrades, it'll cost over 100k if you want genuine leather. Haven't seen leather seat covers as good as the stock leather seats of the 2.0. Though personally I don't see the point of leather seats in a country as hot as ours - I mean, it's ok if it comes stock with the car, but to spend 40k just to get your butt burned when you leave your car in searing midday heat isn't my thing.

Rims will cost you around 50k, plus another 12k for lowering springs (or 40k for coilovers), then the retrofit will cost you 20-25k, plus another 10k if you wanna have LED DRLs like the 2.0. Not so familiar with the HU upgrade, but I was offered a Growl Audio HU for about 40k which already has an Android touch screen HU, TV Plus, backup camera, GPS, and so on. I personally went with the cheaper option of just buying a phone mount and using my smartphone as GPS, then my iPod for music.

Good luck and enjoy your Altis!

Great inputs! This is noted I did some backreading, mas lalo lang ako na excite I'm going to get my unit din at Toyota Global since our house is near Fort Bonifacio. Is their service okay? This is gonna be our first Toyota car.. Sorry if I ask too much