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November 8th, 2012 02:36 AM #1hi guys, can you share your ideas on how to bleed brakes? i have a 4k engine owner type jeep with disk brakes at the front and drum brakes at the rear... im overhauling my drum brakes... and bleeded it but the result was very frustrating... before i overhauled it, it was just a single step on it to trigger. but after i overhauled it, it took 2 pedals before it function. i overhauled it because there was a leak. the rubber boots were tear off... so i replace it with a new one... do i have to bleed all of my brakes even though i only overhauled the 2 rear brakes?
what are the right steps to follow in bleeding process? because maybe im not following the right procedure... i just heard it from a friend that you have to step on the pedal until you felt it was tight enough and then hold it and then open the bleeder valve where the brake fluid will comes out. i just repeat the procedure until no air will comes out. then i proceed to the other rear wheel. after that.. i tested it but i was so frustrated.. you have to pump it twice before it brake..
is there a sequence?
please help me....
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November 8th, 2012 04:32 AM #2
Sir, yung nag palit ka ba ng rubber caps sa break naubusan ka ba ng fluid sa master? dapat hindi maubusan yun, isama mo na din ibleed yung sa master
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November 8th, 2012 09:00 AM #3
looks like you allowed your brakes to "bleed to death" and the lines are empty.
there are three ways to bleed your hydraulic brakes:
with the lines empty because of severe loss of fluid until it ran out:
a. pressure bleeding- this done with a brake bleeder pot where the fluid is under pressure in the pot (not pressurized directly with moisture laden air) and the seal between the pot and the master cylinder is air tight. this eliminates the brake pedal operator, all you do is open and close the bleeder screw until there are no more "babels" coming out
b. mechanical bleeding- this is the most common and traditional brake bleeding procedure where there is a brake pedal operator and there is another person manning the bleeder screw.
c. gravitational bleeding- this is by far least labor required but can only be done if the lines did not run dry. just open the bleeder screw until fluid comes out of the bleeder free of bubbles.
since your system is that of front rear split and disc/drum combination, you start with the actuator or cylinder or caliper farthest from the master cylinder and the last cylinder being the closest to the master cylinder. you might need to bleed the master cylinder if it was empty and proceed bleeding the actuators in sequence.
and the fourth one d. using a handheld vacuum brake bleeder with a fluid collector jar
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November 8th, 2012 09:50 AM #4ok thank you very much guys... i'll try one by one each type of bleeding procedure as mentioned above... maybe i'll try first the gravitational bleeding... you guys are really big help... i'll let you know the result later... thanks again...
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November 8th, 2012 04:05 PM #5
OT:
Ano kaya ang possible na problema pag may squeeking sound when releasing the brake pedal?
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November 8th, 2012 04:34 PM #8
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November 8th, 2012 09:40 PM #9
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