Bighorn turning radius

Hello everybody! New guy here and this is my first post.

I own an Isuzu Bighorn, I'm not sure about the model year but its got the skyroof and 4jg2 engine. The problem is its homongous turning radius! I sometimes have problems negotiating the U-turn slots of Q.Ave. The conversion is ok (as in all connections were checked and found to be tight).

So the question is, do you guys know anybody who could help with this? My best guess is that it has something to do with the installed steering gearbox (its a converted RHD alright). I've seen a post about the Bighorn's steering linkage and part number for the gearbox somewhere here but I can't really do something right now since I'm out of town. I wont be back in Manila till the 2nd week of September so if any of you guys could suggest something, a shop or a part that needs replacement or anything, please post them.

Another thing is the annoying brake squeal. I can hear a squeaking sound like something is dragging or scraping when driving slowly. I think it started when my uncle replaced the brakepads with aftermarket ones (forgot the brand). That was after I managed to almost warp the rotors driving down to manila from Baguio because of worn brakepads:eek:. The rotors have since been resurfaced(?). Any ideas on what's causing the brake squeal? will changing the pads help? where can I get good ones (I heared Bendix is a good brand).

I would greatly appreciate any help or suggestions.

Hi guys! I posted a similar thread in the Isuzu section but has got no response so far so I decided to try it here.

I have an Isuzu Bighorn (4JG2, A/T, skyroof, and yes Japan Surplus Unit). My problem is the humongous turning radius. I often have problems negotiating some of the u-turn slots in Q.Ave. I guess they messed up the conversion, or used the wrong parts. All the parts were installed pretty well actually, no loose connections whatsoever, they were all installed securely in short.

My best guess then is that they might have used the wrong steering gearbox. Anybody knows what type (brand and part number) of gearbox should be used? Also how much and where can I get them? Any inputs will be highly appreciated.

23 views and not a single reply? :( hmmm where have the Isuzu Gods gone?

Pasensiya na bro nag hybernate pa yata isuzu peeps natin. Iba unit natin pero i will try to answer.
Ask lang muna ako questions.
1) left and right radius ba ang affected?
2) Yung limiting bolt ng steering radius na pa adjust na ba?
3) Sa brakes, umiinit ba yung mags? All four ba yung squeel? Pantay/flat ba ang tama sa rotor?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4JGtootsie

Pasensiya na bro nag hybernate pa yata isuzu peeps natin. Iba unit natin pero i will try to answer.
Ask lang muna ako questions.
1) left and right radius ba ang affected?
2) Yung limiting bolt ng steering radius na pa adjust na ba?
3) Sa brakes, umiinit ba yung mags? All four ba yung squeel? Pantay/flat ba ang tama sa rotor?

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Salamat for the reply Sir,

To answer answer your questions and clarify things:
1) Balance na yung right and left redius nya sir pero kulang pa rin.
2) Saan ba makikita yung limiting bolt Sir? Pag i-todo ang turn towards the left or right, napansin ko hindi umaabot sa stops dun sa may ball joints (parang sungay sa lower ball joints) pero hindi ko makita kung saan siya tumutukod. That's why I suspect mali yung gear box na nakakabit.
3) mejo umiinit lahat ng mags Sir pero parang sa isang wheel lang yung maingay (rear left yata). I will still have to check kasi out of the country ako ngayon. Napalinisan ko na rin lahat ng brake pistons (all discs siya). Ano ba function nung manipis na metal sheets sa likod ng mga disc pads? Yung kinabit kasi na pads medyo hindi kapareho nung original na nakakabit (after market pero marked for Bighorn din). Salamat ulit.

Malapit sa lower ball joint an stopper/limiter bolt. Hindi ba umaabot sa bolt?
Try to compare the lenght of the pitman arm installed in your rig from the original OEM. It might be shorter. Check also the relay lever/idler arm if its the same lenght as the pitman. If the OEM is longer it should follow that the relay lever should be as long para full ang steering capacity.

Sa brakes naman if you only hear the noise on one wheel baka may bato lang sa rotor guard. The metal sheets are used to keep the pads tight on its place without it the pads will shake. The heat on the wheel will give you an idea kung stuck up (hot) or hindi pa fully lapat ang pads (colder).

How did they clean the pistons. Replaced rubber oring and rubber boots?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4JGtootsie

Malapit sa lower ball joint an stopper/limiter bolt. Hindi ba umaabot sa bolt?
Try to compare the lenght of the pitman arm installed in your rig from the original OEM. It might be shorter. Check also the relay lever/idler arm if its the same lenght as the pitman. If the OEM is longer it should follow that the relay lever should be as long para full ang steering capacity.

Sa brakes naman if you only hear the noise on one wheel baka may bato lang sa rotor guard. The metal sheets are used to keep the pads tight on its place without it the pads will shake. The heat on the wheel will give you an idea kung stuck up (hot) or hindi pa fully lapat ang pads (colder).

How did they clean the pistons. Replaced rubber oring and rubber boots?

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Sir wala yatang limiter bolt sa ball joints pero parang may dalawang projections (sungay) siya na limiter. I will have to check again (out of the country pa ako). FWIW, when I changed the ball joints last year, the shop where I bought them gave me ball joints for "Bighorn" but was not the same as that connected then. I brought the orig ones to the store and the store clerk said "pang modelo pala ball joints ng bighorn nyo". I presumed he meant the ball joints were the same as those in the newer model Trooper skyroofs. Mine is a '96 model with 4JG2 and A/T and a big sunroof. Camper variant yata tawag nila kasi may built-in butane stove sa likod under the cargo shelf (which could be converted into a bed when rear seats are folded).

I have already changed the idler arm assembly (but used the same arm) however, I did not check if they are of the same length as the pitman arm. I'll have to check that also.

The brakes were disassembled, pistons and cylinders cleaned of rust (meron konti) and replaced the rubber rings and boots. Parang metal to metal yung scraping sound e. Will check also kung may mga naka singit mga na bato or whatever dun sa rotor guards. Pare pareho yung init ng 4 na rims sir after a long drive. Actually mas mainit ng konti yung mga harapan. The sound changes tone (pero parang meron pa rin) if I step on the brakes.

moving to the workshop thread for more exposure. :police:

Wala siya sa ball joint nasa lower wishbone near the ball joint. Clean it baka marumi lang its is suppose to be a bolt.

Also remember na may brake shoe sa loob ng rear rotor for the handbrake operation. Check this as well.

Ok, will check that limiter bolt.

I was also thinking, when converting to left hand drive, do they just transfer the gearbox to the other side (and the steering column, etc) and the idler arm assy to the other, and then flip the center link? Is the center link (also called drag link?) the same for an RHD as that for an original LHD vehicle?

If all checks out well, it might be the gear box :(. Is possible they installed the wrong type of gear box?

The brake shoes in the drum (hand brake) is supposed to be self adjusting, right? Hmmm haven't thought of that before, might have to open that as well.