Honda CVT transmission concerns, have you had any? How did the dealership handle it?

**Fil Trans** · May 21st, 2019 12:41 PM

Hi

Coming from a manual car that I've been using for decades, I am planning on getting a CVT Honda because of the traffic.

I've done a bit of research in this forum and elsewhere and have found some people have had problems with their CVT.

Hearing that replacement transmission is going for around 300 thousand is making me consider getting a manual again despite the traffic and manual problems of master/slave cylinder breaking. It is also encouraging me more to get Honda's extended warranty.

Anyways, hoping we could somehow consolidate CVT concerns so it becomes easier for Honda CVT owners to find solutions to their CVT problems (if any), join forces so that dealing with the CASA becomes easier and hopefully more affordable.

1) How many KM have you run your Honda CVT? What model and year is your unit? Has it manifested any CVT problems? Did you complete follow the PMS 40k km CVT fluid change?

2) Did you bring your concern to your dealership? Which branch? And what did they do for you? Was it still under warranty?

3) To those who have had their CVT completely replaced brand new by the dealership (which branch) under warranty, were you able to do it under warranty without any issues or delay?

4) To those who have had their CVT completey replace brand new by the dealership OUT OF WARRANTY, how much did it cost you?

5) If I wanted to have my CVT fluid changed every year (20k) vs the usual every 2 years (40k) to help extend the life of the CVT, will Honda service/dealer/SPA, actually do it or will they say they did it and just charge me anyway? How much extra would this cost just for the CVT fluid and labor?

6) If I wanted to change my CVT fluid on my own more often while the car is still under warranty to save on labor cost, will this void my warranty?

7) When replacing the car battery, I've read the the computer of the CVT needs to be reset, how much will this cost for Honda to do this?

Thank you very much.

**Vodka** · May 21st, 2019 01:56 PM

go for it. i'm sure it'll last 100,000km or more if you drive gently. no heavy loads, no towing, no climbing baguio regularly, etc

they've been designed to last X number of kilometers for a given usage pattern

**_Qwerty_** · May 21st, 2019 02:19 PM

1. 19,6xx kms / Honda BRV S / Dec. 2016 / no problem / yes did 2 years cvt fluid change
2 - 6. N/A
7. changed battery already, wala namang ni reset.

**17Sphynx17** · May 21st, 2019 02:33 PM

Own 11 year old Honda City i-Dsi CVT. # of times replaced CVTF, twice only. I do not follow the 2 year interval "required" by Honda, but that is I feel okay for my use case since it is not normally stuck in bumper to bumper traffic, and usage is around 8k to 10k kms over 12 months to 15 months (variable).

1) Never experienced CVT issue specifically but the first CVTF change I did was on it's 6th year (2014), and the next CVTF change was just this year (2019). Total mileage accumulated now is around 85k kms.
2) For major concerns when it was already outside the warranty, that was when I bring it to Honda Casa (Q Ave specifically). Starting on the 6th year of ownership, it was no longer under annual PMS of Honda. But I have adjusted a regimen of only bringing it to Honda every "3rd year interval" for now. The rest, I was fine with Shell/Payless Car Care Center for the Annual PMS.

5) Answered in # 1, but I also didn't use the Manual Mode of the CVT, just to clear up this item since there is a known issue with weakness in the belts when using manual mode for this specific model design of the City (at least that's what I recalled).

6) I don't advice this personally. Best to leave it to Honda so you don't risk damaging your transmission just to save a few bucks.

7) For my case, when replacing the battery, I specifically run the car first before the battery is removed so that all electronics are running off the alternator, avoiding any electronics to suffer a reset or "error" (just to be on the safe side). On my first battery replacement, I didn't know about the CVT might needing to be reset so I didn't start it before. So I did bring it to Honda to have it reset as I felt it was not "performing" the same (shifting wise) after my first battery change. Succeeding battery replacements, I made sure to start the cars (be it AT or CVT) after that happened, never had any issues after. If the battery is already dead, I have the new battery just connected to the old battery terminals so I can start the car when they are connected in series. Car starts, assuming no other issue is causing the "unable to start" issue.

This is my own personal experience with Honda CVT specifically and what I've done during its life. Still own and use the vehicle daily.

**Vodka** · May 21st, 2019 05:27 PM

Originally Posted by 17Sphynx17

7) For my case, when replacing the battery, I specifically run the car first before the battery is removed so that all electronics are running off the alternator, avoiding any electronics to suffer a reset or "error" (just to be on the safe side). On my first battery replacement, I didn't know about the CVT might needing to be reset so I didn't start it before. So I did bring it to Honda to have it reset as I felt it was not "performing" the same (shifting wise) after my first battery change. Succeeding battery replacements, I made sure to start the cars (be it AT or CVT) after that happened, never had any issues after. If the battery is already dead, I have the new battery just connected to the old battery terminals so I can start the car when they are connected in series. Car starts, assuming no other issue is causing the "unable to start" issue.

this is not recommended

**Athrunzala** · May 21st, 2019 05:48 PM

Sabi ni Scotty Kilmer sa Youtube, worse daw ang CVT ng Nissan, at ang mas maganda ay ang sa CVT ng Toyota

**17Sphynx17** · May 21st, 2019 08:57 PM

Originally Posted by Vodka

this is not recommended

It may not be written in the manual, but i rather not rrisk running the transmission while there could be an error in the computer box after battery removal (without running off the alternator).

Im just saying what i do to avoid needing a cvt reset.

I also own a sylphy cvt. When nissan serviced the sylphy, they removed the battery over the course of repair work (i posted this in the thread for sylphy).

When i got the car back, the transmission was behaving differently. I brought it back for a reset. Nissan doesnt have the same like honda. So they installed the latest firmware they had on hand for the cvt. Basically equivalent to a reset.

The transmissiom behaved the same after it as well.

So, you could see it as anecdotal. But that has been my personal experience with cvts and i would rather not risk it.

**Walter** · May 22nd, 2019 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by 17Sphynx17

7) For my case, when replacing the battery, I specifically run the car first before the battery is removed so that all electronics are running off the alternator, avoiding any electronics to suffer a reset or "error" (just to be on the safe side). On my first battery replacement, I didn't know about the CVT might needing to be reset so I didn't start it before. So I did bring it to Honda to have it reset as I felt it was not "performing" the same (shifting wise) after my first battery change. Succeeding battery replacements, I made sure to start the cars (be it AT or CVT) after that happened, never had any issues after. If the battery is already dead, I have the new battery just connected to the old battery terminals so I can start the car when they are connected in series. Car starts, assuming no other issue is causing the "unable to start" issue.

Should avoid doing this on modern vehicle withs a lot of electronics ... One spike from the alternator and it might fry a lot of things ...

**17Sphynx17** · May 22nd, 2019 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by Walter

Should avoid doing this on modern vehicle withs a lot of electronics ... One spike from the alternator and it might fry a lot of things ...

Automotive Charging Systems - A Short Course on How They Work | CarParts.com

I would like some clarification on this specific topic then.

Documentations I have read always mention that alternators (I assume especially the current car designs) have regulators as all alternators run Alternating Current.

Now, there is a likelihood that the regulator "could fail". But even the documentation here says that if that is the case, lights on the dashboard would shop up indicating such an issue.

So, based on that, my understanding it, don't do it if your car is showing other issues and not just a "dead battery" that needs swapping out. Since current AT/CVT batteries are the maintenance free types, once signs of hard-starting are showing (meaning the car can still turnover) I usually buy new batteries already to change it out.

Thoughts?

EDIT:

1) please consider that all other electrical components are turned off when I'm doing the swap with the car running. A/C, Lights and radio/Head Unit are turned off. No revving of the car engine during the "swap" to a new battery
2) By doing #1, I am not introducing any unnecessary load to the electrical system during the swap. Just need to car to idle "low"
3) the car does not present any other issue when it was in use prior to the "Swap"
4) During the "swap", I will keep presence of mind to keep the battery terminals/wires (positive and negative) completely isolated and separate, and not contact with any other metallic component of the vehicle or tools that could cause a completion of the circuit (other than when they connect with the new battery)

**StockEngine** · May 21st, 2019 02:34 PM

5. completely unnecessary. the cvt fluid change itnerval is already shortened to maximize reliability.
6. void.. labor has to be from dealership to retain warranty.

7. battery replacements shouldnt affect cvt memories. its not designed that way.

buy their extended warranty to calm your cvt fears..