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  1. Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    4,250
    #81
    Quote Originally Posted by vgsison View Post
    Thanks for all the suggestions Mate.

    My unit has about 45k in its odo. Do u suggest change in fluids already needed? Who can do fluid flushing if ever?

    Since our TB is rubber belt type, i plan to replace the timing belt kits. Thunder quoted me at 13800 for full kit. My next issue is who can competently change it for me, that is as competent as casa without the exorbitant service charge.

    My oil change is ongoing now. My trusted neighborhood mechanic is doing it for me. Who can instruct me the procedure for resetting the perform engine oil notification. Or probably i will just look it up in the internet.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    all fluids change is set at 40k ODO as per manual, did that at 45k as well but most oils were bought from Thunder Banawe.

    the TBZ has 2 belts (timing and drive), if your suking shop has the SPECIAL TOOL to install the timing belt then there's no issue on that. recommend to change your all belts + associated pulleys at the same time because you need to remove the fan blade and its guard to gain access during the belt removal/re-installation. i did mine at 95k ODO (manual says to change at 60K ODO)

    resetting of oil change reminder... i did posted here before how to do it. but not so sure already on the sequence.
    try this... switch to acc. and depress the gas pedal 3x within 5 seconds.

  2. Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    37
    #82
    My pleasure mate .

    As Gumusut_Amige has suggested on everything bro.

    Timing Belt needs to be done correctly, so unless the shop is capable to do it without messing it up then go for it, otherwise I would hit the CASA for that mate, only PMS I would do there if no other options.

    I wouldn't leave an ATF more than 2Years or 20,000KMS, especially in this hot weather bro, but that's me. If I were you, I would change the ATF filter as well, which I'm gonna do soon, just for peace of mind.

    Same story for the Coolant, but maybe 3Years for the extended life version, even though it's rated for 5years, but that's me again.

    Don't forget your brake fluid, transfer case if you have a 4x4, power steering (There is no such a thing as LifeTime), rear and front axle fluid.

    Have done most of these stuff between Fronte Banawe and CarBase.

    It would be great if you can send us a picture of how your ATF looks like at 45K, on a white tissue. Or let us know if it is still pinkish or possibly a broke brown/black.

  3. Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    4
    #83
    Hi Guys,

    Been reading informative posts here and learning a lot. I have some questions for my underchassis. Got a 2014 TB LT with 112k in Odo and recently changed all tires with 265/70/R16 - stock was 245/70/R16. Had wheel balancing, alignment and camber done but I am still getting wiggle at high speed around 85 kph and above plus it pulls to the right. Went to ValuePlus for second opinion check and they said my tie rod and another part which i forgot the name is -umaalog na and need to be replaced. My question is do you think it has something to do with the change in tire size? I dont want to replace the parts -tie rod and the other if that is not the root cause as it may get damaged again. Any suggestion for a good underchassis shop in the south? Cavite area. I can also go to a shop even it is far as long as its service is very recommended.

    Thanks

  4. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #84
    Quote Originally Posted by Rhem View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Been reading informative posts here and learning a lot. I have some questions for my underchassis. Got a 2014 TB LT with 112k in Odo and recently changed all tires with 265/70/R16 - stock was 245/70/R16. Had wheel balancing, alignment and camber done but I am still getting wiggle at high speed around 85 kph and above plus it pulls to the right. Went to ValuePlus for second opinion check and they said my tie rod and another part which i forgot the name is -umaalog na and need to be replaced. My question is do you think it has something to do with the change in tire size? I dont want to replace the parts -tie rod and the other if that is not the root cause as it may get damaged again. Any suggestion for a good underchassis shop in the south? Cavite area. I can also go to a shop even it is far as long as its service is very recommended.

    Thanks
    245 width tires were the stock tires? I thought they were wider...

    Did you watch the wheel balancing say zero? These big tires if not balanced can cause a slight wiggle at high speed.


    Tie rods do fail.. it's easy to check. It's not expensive. They can show you if they have a lifter...

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  5. Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    4
    #85
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    245 width tires were the stock tires? I thought they were wider...

    Did you watch the wheel balancing say zero? These big tires if not balanced can cause a slight wiggle at high speed.


    Tie rods do fail.. it's easy to check. It's not expensive. They can show you if they have a lifter...

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    Thanks StockEngine. Yeah, 245 was the stock for my 2014 LT and i dont have enough to change rim so i went on to get a bigger tire instead. They did balance it where i bought the tire including alignment and on the other shop, they showed me the tie rods while car is in a lifter. I guess i'll proceed on for tie rod replacement then and keep the tires if that is not the cause of it. I had an experience with a sedan before where I changed to a wider tire and damaged my wheel bearing. I was thinking of the same case but I hope it's not the same here.

  6. Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    37
    #86
    Follow the same tire size bro, 245/70/R16. Or upgrade to 18" Rims and go with 265/60 and sell your current rims.

    I have seen all kind of troubles before especially when changing tire width on almost all vehicles. They tend to make parts wear out faster, bad handling compared to previous handling, more stress on engine and transmission, worst fuel economy too. Not to mention ABS problems may jump in. These are some of the cons.

    Only pros it may give you is better traction as well as stopping distance, but may be very minimal to notice and only to certain degrees.

  7. Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    4
    #87
    Quote Originally Posted by shadyanderson09 View Post
    Follow the same tire size bro, 245/70/R16. Or upgrade to 18" Rims and go with 265/60 and sell your current rims.

    I have seen all kind of troubles before especially when changing tire width on almost all vehicles. They tend to make parts wear out faster, bad handling compared to previous handling, more stress on engine and transmission, worst fuel economy too. Not to mention ABS problems may jump in. These are some of the cons.

    Only pros it may give you is better traction as well as stopping distance, but may be very minimal to notice and only to certain degrees.
    Thanks for the advice man. I guess i'll switch tires back and sell the bigger ones than risk having other parts damaged and cost me more.

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27,624
    #88
    Quote Originally Posted by Rhem View Post
    Thanks for the advice man. I guess i'll switch tires back and sell the bigger ones than risk having other parts damaged and cost me more.
    Check your tire specs and measure the rim width. If it's in spec, work on your tie rods first.

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

  9. Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    4
    #89
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    Check your tire specs and measure the rim width. If it's in spec, work on your tie rods first.

    Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
    Thanks! I checked the owner's manual and it doesnt say what are the min/max specs of a tire that can be used. It just mentions the tire that comes with it which is 245/70/R16 and tire pressure specs. Im searching for the tire specs online but if anybody has this info handy, will appreciate if you can share it

    Update : Owner's manual says wheel measurement is 6.5J x 16" so i guess 6.5 is my rim width and some search lead me here - Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets - Wheel-Size.com

    Cheers,

  10. Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    6
    #90
    [/INDENT]
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    1. If that zic oil meets acea c3 requirements then yes. It's should be written on the bottle. (Htts 3.5 and above)
    2. I use dex6 on my torque converter. Mag1 is an ok brand in the US.
    3. No need to open the pan. You can however do a full drain from shops with a transtech equipment.
    4. Engine coolant stick with oem.
    5. Most likely no dpf. Egr cleaning can be done by shops listed
    6. Shops can do this. I'll list below
    7. Follow 40k
    8. Underchasis nut and bolt tightening.
    9. No idea

    Shops to consider
    Zix performance fb available
    Servitek full service
    Powertorq fb available

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

    [INDENT]

    HELPPPPP!!!


    Hi! I’m new to this forum and hope to get great advice here

    I’m planning to have a major (50k) PMS for 2014 AT Trailblazer outside CASA. Do you have any recommendation for maintenance shops who specializes in TB near Makati/Pasay/Taguig area?

    My husband is out of the country and am kinda scared to be ripped off by the shops because I know nothing about cars! Have called the usual casa we go to, but the PMS cost estimate is a whopping Php60k!!! Timing belts etc have to be replaced and all, but am wondering where to get less expensive but trusty PMS as well as where to buy the parts.

    Also, can anyone let me know what’s usually done/replaced for this kind of major PMS?

    Thanks in advance!

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