audio set-up for beginners [continued]

[red_one]

How's the interface? Snappy and no lag when cycling through the menu?

Good interface. Snappy and no lag. I also want to correct the CPU is Octa-core. I connected 500GB external HDD to USB port and it works. Loaded with music and movies.

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[donskie_0728]

Hi Sound guru's, I've been following this thread from quite sometime now and I have learned a lot for my sound set up.

Hingi sana ako ng tulong nyo. I am currently using Focal 165FX on my mid, avh595BT HU, DLS P40amp and Kicker Comp R 12" (planning to replace soon) with 10" maybe JL or focal sub. I am leaning through SQ which I am now satisfied with these set up after learning on a hard way. Because I started my set up using LL 4ch and mono amp, pioneer seps and the Kicker sub. Which were all disposed and now changed to focal 165fx and DLS amp only, except for the kicker sub which I like to sell also soon.

Now, my question is it is worth putting a PC 165F (coaxial) to the back seat (dont know what does it called) where the stocks speaker was installed. The stock speaker was still there but was not wired, meaning hindi siya pinagana ng installer ko. I just want to know kung mag improve pa and sound quality and listening pleasure especially to my passengers if I install a coaxial speaker in that location? or better stay on my current set up and spend my extra bucks in replacing my subs into a compatible SQ set up? BTW, my car is a vios sedan.

Thanks in advance for those who will give advise and critics.

[sientobente]

^I'd skip the coaxials. Does your HU have time alignment? This is to enable your installer to manually tune your ride to have multiple optimized listening positions. This is what I miss in Alpine's Audyssey, where you can easily do that. If that feature is not available, an external processor will help.


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[cls]

Hi guys.hoping you could help me decide which amp to get since my friend is in the u.s. til next week and i can order online. Im choosing between (3)4ch amps and both are priced almost the same except for the 3rd.($100 cheaper)

1. Hertz HCP4d (class d) 1,100watts
Channel mode 4 - 3 - 2 Output Power (RMS) * 14.4 VDC 4 Ch: 85 W x 4 (4 Ω) 4 Ch: 145 W x 4 (2 Ω) 3 Ch: 85 W x 2 (4 Ω) + 290 W x 1 (4 Ω) 3 Ch: 145 W x 2 (2 Ω) + 290 W x 1 (4 Ω) 2 Ch: 290 W x 2 (4 Ω) Filters Bypass Hi-Pass Lo-Pass Band-Pass Yes A/B: 50 ÷ 3.2k Hz * 12 dB/Oct. A/B: 50 ÷ 3.2k Hz * 12 dB/Oct. - Distortion - THD (100Hz * 4Ω) 0.02% S/N Ratio (A weighted * 1V) 100 dB Damping factor (100Hz * 4Ω) 200

2. RF Punch 600x4 (AB)-800+watts
4-channel car amplifier
75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

3. Hertz HCP4-740watts
Channel mode 4 - 3 - 2 Output Power (RMS) * 14.4 VDC 4 Ch: 65 W x 4 (4 Ω) 4 Ch: 95 W x 4 (2 Ω) 3 Ch: 65 W x 2 (4 Ω) + 190 W x 1 (4 Ω) 3 Ch: 95 W x 2 (2 Ω) + 190 W x 1 (4 Ω) 2 Ch: 190 W x 2 (4 Ω) Filters Bypass Hi-Pass Lo-Pass Band-Pass Yes A/B: 80 Hz * 12 dB/Oct. A/B: 50 ÷ 500 Hz * 12 dB/Oct. - Distortion - THD (100Hz * 4Ω) 0.01% S/N Ratio (A weighted * 1V) 103 dB Damping factor (100Hz * 4Ω) 120 Size W x D x H mm (in.) 315 x 190 x 50 (12.40 x 7.48 x 1.97)

*3rd amp is cheaper by $100

My next plan is to buy the stuff locally:
1. Seps( morel tempo, hertz esk, or rainbow slc)
2. DSP since i dont want to change current hu of 2017 civic
3. 10-12inch sealed sub


Will do the others pa isa isa(So wife wont be shocked)

What amp would you suggest? I usually listen to alternative/progressive rock, electronic and jazz.

Thanks
Cls




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[jhnkvn]

Hi guys.hoping you could help me decide which amp to get since my friend is in the u.s. til next week and i can order online. Im choosing between (3)4ch amps and both are priced almost the same except for the 3rd.($100 cheaper)

1. Hertz HCP4d (class d) 1,100watts
Channel mode 4 - 3 - 2 Output Power (RMS) * 14.4 VDC 4 Ch: 85 W x 4 (4 Ω) 4 Ch: 145 W x 4 (2 Ω) 3 Ch: 85 W x 2 (4 Ω) + 290 W x 1 (4 Ω) 3 Ch: 145 W x 2 (2 Ω) + 290 W x 1 (4 Ω) 2 Ch: 290 W x 2 (4 Ω) Filters Bypass Hi-Pass Lo-Pass Band-Pass Yes A/B: 50 ÷ 3.2k Hz * 12 dB/Oct. A/B: 50 ÷ 3.2k Hz * 12 dB/Oct. - Distortion - THD (100Hz * 4Ω) 0.02% S/N Ratio (A weighted * 1V) 100 dB Damping factor (100Hz * 4Ω) 200

2. RF Punch 600x4 (AB)-800+watts
4-channel car amplifier
75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

3. Hertz HCP4-740watts
Channel mode 4 - 3 - 2 Output Power (RMS) * 14.4 VDC 4 Ch: 65 W x 4 (4 Ω) 4 Ch: 95 W x 4 (2 Ω) 3 Ch: 65 W x 2 (4 Ω) + 190 W x 1 (4 Ω) 3 Ch: 95 W x 2 (2 Ω) + 190 W x 1 (4 Ω) 2 Ch: 190 W x 2 (4 Ω) Filters Bypass Hi-Pass Lo-Pass Band-Pass Yes A/B: 80 Hz * 12 dB/Oct. A/B: 50 ÷ 500 Hz * 12 dB/Oct. - Distortion - THD (100Hz * 4Ω) 0.01% S/N Ratio (A weighted * 1V) 103 dB Damping factor (100Hz * 4Ω) 120 Size W x D x H mm (in.) 315 x 190 x 50 (12.40 x 7.48 x 1.97)

*3rd amp is cheaper by $100

My next plan is to buy the stuff locally:
1. Seps( morel tempo, hertz esk, or rainbow slc)
2. DSP since i dont want to change current hu of 2017 civic
3. 10-12inch sealed sub


Will do the others pa isa isa(So wife wont be shocked)

What amp would you suggest? I usually listen to alternative/progressive rock, electronic and jazz.

Thanks
Cls

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The first choice.

Fortunately, Class D amplifiers has gone a long way na and they aren't really shunned by the general SQ public anymore. I love their efficiency.

[jhnkvn]

Hi Sound guru's, I've been following this thread from quite sometime now and I have learned a lot for my sound set up.

Hingi sana ako ng tulong nyo. I am currently using Focal 165FX on my mid, avh595BT HU, DLS P40amp and Kicker Comp R 12" (planning to replace soon) with 10" maybe JL or focal sub. I am leaning through SQ which I am now satisfied with these set up after learning on a hard way. Because I started my set up using LL 4ch and mono amp, pioneer seps and the Kicker sub. Which were all disposed and now changed to focal 165fx and DLS amp only, except for the kicker sub which I like to sell also soon.

Now, my question is it is worth putting a PC 165F (coaxial) to the back seat (dont know what does it called) where the stocks speaker was installed. The stock speaker was still there but was not wired, meaning hindi siya pinagana ng installer ko. I just want to know kung mag improve pa and sound quality and listening pleasure especially to my passengers if I install a coaxial speaker in that location? or better stay on my current set up and spend my extra bucks in replacing my subs into a compatible SQ set up? BTW, my car is a vios sedan.

Thanks in advance for those who will give advise and critics.

You're still partway sa audio journey mo. Long way to go! But push lang!

The best choice is to maximize your gear. If I were in your shoes, I would:
1. Retain the Kicker Comp R subwoofer
2. Invest in a 4-channel amplifier with DSP
3. Bridge the Kicker on the P40 amp
4. Have your front-stage on the new amplifier
5. Tune it well

Pointers:
1. Subwoofers still sound great even without being hooked to a DSP. Just set the proper crossovers and play with the phase.
2. Try to listen to a well-tuned SQ car. You'll be amazed how you won't ever need the rear speakers once you get the tuning stuff correctly.
3. To answer your question, throwing coaxials at your back will 95% just reduce your sound quality as their sound waves clash with the frontstage.
4. In fact, I have yet to hear a good SQ system locally with the rear speakers on. Done correctly, it'll enhance "ambience" but it's extremely hard to get it correctly.
5. Before you think of throwing a "SQ" subwoofer in your car, do know that there's no such thing as "SQ" subwoofers; there's only good tuning.
6. Given a certain sound level, your 12" Kicker is technically superior than those 10" Focal and JL subs that you want to replace it with. Bigger displacement means less Xmax which translates to less distortion.
7. Don't give in to marketing

[cls]

The first choice.

Fortunately, Class D amplifiers has gone a long way na and they aren't really shunned by the general SQ public anymore. I love their efficiency.

Thanks jhnkvn. Im also thinking of an amp with dsp already like the Mosconi 130.4 dsp. Any exprerience with a amps with dsp?


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[donskie_0728]

Thanks Sientobente, I am now starting to convince to take the coaxials out of the equation. Yes my headunit has time alignment features which was maximized by my installer. Since it already has the TA feature do you think I still need a dsp or it will be a very little improvement if I put one? Coz we all know that dsp's are not cheap...

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[donskie_0728]

You're still partway sa audio journey mo. Long way to go! But push lang!

The best choice is to maximize your gear. If I were in your shoes, I would:
1. Retain the Kicker Comp R subwoofer
2. Invest in a 4-channel amplifier with DSP
3. Bridge the Kicker on the P40 amp
4. Have your front-stage on the new amplifier
5. Tune it well

Pointers:
1. Subwoofers still sound great even without being hooked to a DSP. Just set the proper crossovers and play with the phase.
2. Try to listen to a well-tuned SQ car. You'll be amazed how you won't ever need the rear speakers once you get the tuning stuff correctly.
3. To answer your question, throwing coaxials at your back will 95% just reduce your sound quality as their sound waves clash with the frontstage.
4. In fact, I have yet to hear a good SQ system locally with the rear speakers on. Done correctly, it'll enhance "ambience" but it's extremely hard to get it correctly.
5. Before you think of throwing a "SQ" subwoofer in your car, do know that there's no such thing as "SQ" subwoofers; there's only good tuning.
6. Given a certain sound level, your 12" Kicker is technically superior than those 10" Focal and JL subs that you want to replace it with. Bigger displacement means less Xmax which translates to less distortion.
7. Don't give in to marketing

Thanks for the input jhnkvn...more queries below:
1. Do you think retaining my kicker comp R will be better to give that chest bump but still soft for the SQ type of music?
2. My current amp DLS P40 is a 4channel already where my front and sub was linked. Do you think I still need to add another 4ch with dsp or get a sole dsp only to linked with my P40 amp?
3. Since my P40 is 4ch...it is where my kicker was bridged. Does getting a mono amp for the kicker will be a better choice so to let my front use the P40 solely?

Which of the below set up would you go into?
A. Pioneer 595BT - existing
Focal PS165fx - existing
A new 4ch ampli with dsp - to run the focal mid - NEW
DLS P40 4ch amp for the kicker sub bridged with the new ampli with DSP. - existing

B. Pioneer 595BT - existing
Focal PS165fx - existing
DSP - NEW - bridged with the DLS P40 amp running the focal mid and kicker sub.

C. Pioneer 595BT - existing
Focal PS165fx - existing
DLS P40 4ch amp - existing to run the focal mid
MONO amp for the kicker sub - NEW

D. Pioneer 595BT - existing
Focal PS165fx - existing
DLS P40 4ch amp - to run the focal mid - existing
DSP for the DLS 4ch amp - NEW
MONO amp for the kicker sub - NEW

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[jhnkvn]

Thanks jhnkvn. Im also thinking of an amp with dsp already like the Mosconi 130.4 dsp. Any exprerience with a amps with dsp?

Manufacturers are slowly integrating DSPs into their amps. I find that it's a good decision naman but be wary as sometimes the added cost of the DSP (DSP amp vs normal amp) is higher than the cost of a dedicated DSP. While a dedicated DSP will also need wires (as you'll factor that in), I'm still biased on separating them if possible.

Mosconi is a great brand and the DSP interface is pretty functional naman. I'd say go with it if the cost of it is better than buying a standalone DSP (there are ones for cheap locally like Firland Audio, Lightning Lab, etc.). As an idea, I'm not really fickle on expensive DSPs vs cheap ones so I'd prefer you go for cheap ones. The realm of professional/studio audio has seen the advent of cheap DSPs for years with no problem.