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  1. Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    #131
    Quote Originally Posted by Hardinero View Post
    ms madkatz,

    1) for drying i'm using jelly blade muna para mabawasan yung tubig before ko i-wipe dry..

    would jelly blade cause swirl marks and can strip wax

    2) which is better between the two wash mitts yung sm arnold or microtex? yung microtex eto yung bilog bilog yung strand nya diba...

    thanks,
    hardinero
    1. it depends on how you use it, but generally its never 100% scratch free

    2. i would put my bets on Microtex Washmitts since the Sm Arnold doesn't clean quite as well

  2. Join Date
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    #132
    Quote Originally Posted by Hardinero View Post
    comrades, what are your thoughts on mothers powerball?
    Which one?

  3. Join Date
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    #133
    Quote Originally Posted by indiej View Post
    swirlx will more than remove surface contaminants which claying would do, it will remove a minute layer of clear coat. whatever was stuck on that outermost CC goes off.

    though swirlx may level the paint a bit it may not correct some scratches that's where step 2 comes in. but nsc will wipe that out. if we say it isn't removed, NSC is not designed to bond with step 2. even though Mike Philips would reason that a sealant will not fall off if layered on a non-compatible glaze, i believe it may have less durability. but a lot of us have been pushed to start from scratch even before the recommended reapplication of the sealant.

    IPA is not a need. it's an added prep for that NSC-paint bond. i want NSC to dry and bond with the paint with less oils and non-diminishing abrasives from Swirlx. but if it's a toss between IPA or NSC to clean before LLS, NSC wins.

    equivocal much?
    generally its ok to not clay and go directly to swirlX but if its a bad case of breakdust or industrial fall out on the paint, those which feel like very sharp dusts you might want to clay since applying swirlX might push these around and create more scratches, but generally it would be ok to remove clay from the procedure it really depends on the paint condition

    To Nik: i agree with the second paragraph, im actually a bit let down by what Mike Philips said because we really did an actual test on which one lasts longer, NSC on bare paint or NSC on a glazed paint we you could really see the sheeting gone with the glazed paint thats why we have acrylic, polymer and urethane based glazes hanging around, these are designed to work as a glaze that is compatible with whatever the nature of the sealant is, generally polymer based and acrylic glazes really work well with sealants.

  4. Join Date
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    #134
    Quote Originally Posted by Nik View Post
    got your point sir.. and mas nagustuhan ko yung idea mo na mag IPA..

    tungkol lang sa swirlX and Clay dun lang ako may ?? sa mind ko.. sa ibang site kasi need pa ng clay before mag correct ng paint..

    thanks for the info that you gave sir.. tutal i enjoy the process of detailing gawin ko nalang lahat nung sinuggest nyo sir and yung idea ko.. hehe para sure talaga.. tutal twice a year lang naman gagawin..

    thanks again.. maybe tom pag uwi ko sa hood ko muna gagawin.. hirap wala time hehe
    with some sites they are very strict with their standards as with our mentors standards, so we were taught to clay first before using any machine on the paint to remove embedded dusts that might cause more swirls, but to be honest it really all depends on the paint condition, you would see some detailers out there winning trophies and plaques for detailing but they don't even know what a clay is.

    with the IPA its always better to do IPA so that NSC cleans better, its like taking away a huge portion of NSC's job enabling NSC to perform better, like with what indiej said its an optional step but a highly recommended one

    the routine looks nice but the application of step 2 might cause you bonding problems with the sealant

  5. Join Date
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    #135
    Quote Originally Posted by dbhollanda View Post
    remember my overspray issue? since it's still warranty and the dealership called as per instructions from HARI to resolve my overspray issues. i made an appointment yesterday (saturday) and here's what happened.

    guys need your comments and recommendations...

    kanina (saturday oct 16) i went to dasmarinas but rochelle was not there but she left instructions to Monching (Ramon) sa service to handle my concerns.

    i showed him the overspray and he agreed that it was indeed magaspang. so he asked me na iwan yung car but i cant on that particular time but we agreed and compromised to that my wife will bring the car on either nov 2 or 3 as i will be on another set of business trip so ok lang na wala muna si SF.
    i asked him what are the steps that they will do on the overspray and this is what he told me.

    1. lilihain ng pinaka fine yung may overspray
    2. buffing yung areas
    3. then overcoat

    i asked him several times kung i-rubbing nila and he said na no they wont do that unless na gusto ko and i said that i dont want the rubbing thing and just tell me now that if they will do that then i will not leave the car with them and i'll just handle it myself by claying the affected areas. and he assured me several times na hindi nya/nila i rubbing.

    ano sa tingin nyo? ok kaya ito to address the overspray issue? papayag ba ko sa steps nila or ako na lang ang gagawa?
    hmmm i don't think wet sanding the paint is such a good idea, i mean even though you use the finest 3500 grit sand paper you are taking out more clear coat compared to a premium rubbing compound, so im not comfortable with the idea

    next step 2 and 3 are quite puzzling, you see in the first place why would they machine buff the paint if they are applying overcoat? by overcoat im guessing you mean clear coat, you see you only machine polish when you are ready to deliver the vehicle or you machine polish a paint to make it generally leveled, leveled to a point that when you do a uniform method of wet sanding you get better results, usually when people machine buff a car its 95% to be delivered to the customer and the remaining 5% is to be wetsanded again to be layered with clear coat, you see you need to wetsand the paint in order for the clearcoat to stick properly to the paint, the adhesion is better this way but it also means that you are going to wetsand the paint meaning removing them, now however thick the clear coat they plan on applying i dont know but my guess is that they will wetsand the paint with 2500 or 3000 grit sandpaper and just polish it, true they might not use rubbing compound but they might end up using an aggressive polish with can also remove clear coat as much as rubbing compounds can

  6. Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    #136
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    Which one?
    yung PowerBall4Paint

  7. Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    2,237
    #137
    Siguro yung mga floating paint particles sa hangin yung dumikit sa paint.Kung light overspray lang yan meaning hindi directly tinamaan ng sprayer pwede matanggal ng clay yan. Nung galing body repair ako dati ang daming gaspang sa different panels ng car. After claying makinis na ulit

  8. Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    225
    #138
    Quote Originally Posted by [URL="http://tsikot.yehey.com/forums/member.php?u=76971"
    madkatz[/URL] ]*chickselog: Klasse SG is considered a sealant so its basically a LSP. Its different in the sense that Mom's Step 2 which is "seal and glaze" has the seal word in it which can be confusing and can be mistaken as a sealant where in fact it functions nowhere near what a sealant does. Step 2 is basically a glaze.

    Basically if its the 3 step its

    1. Step 1
    2. Step 2
    3. Sealant/wax

    now if its a 4 step its

    1. Step 1
    2. Step 2
    3. Sealant
    4. Wax ( after 12/24 hours )


    this is the most advised method of applying a sealant, although in Mothers they put the sealant last, it all depends on the company's policy and method actually.
    grabe inabot na ako ng 1:30am sa backread....eto na hanap kong beauty regimen...question ms madkatz...comment ko mark in fuschia

    1. Step 1
    2. Step 2
    IPA (or hindi na kelangan)
    3. Sealant
    4. Wax ( after 12/24 hours )

    with regards to layering the sealant pala ms madkatz kelangan ba talaga hindi gamitin yung car or much better during the curing time eh wag gamitin...

  9. Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    505
    #139
    Quote Originally Posted by madkatz View Post
    hmmm i don't think wet sanding the paint is such a good idea, i mean even though you use the finest 3500 grit sand paper you are taking out more clear coat compared to a premium rubbing compound, so im not comfortable with the idea

    next step 2 and 3 are quite puzzling, you see in the first place why would they machine buff the paint if they are applying overcoat? by overcoat im guessing you mean clear coat, you see you only machine polish when you are ready to deliver the vehicle or you machine polish a paint to make it generally leveled, leveled to a point that when you do a uniform method of wet sanding you get better results, usually when people machine buff a car its 95% to be delivered to the customer and the remaining 5% is to be wetsanded again to be layered with clear coat, you see you need to wetsand the paint in order for the clearcoat to stick properly to the paint, the adhesion is better this way but it also means that you are going to wetsand the paint meaning removing them, now however thick the clear coat they plan on applying i dont know but my guess is that they will wetsand the paint with 2500 or 3000 grit sandpaper and just polish it, true they might not use rubbing compound but they might end up using an aggressive polish with can also remove clear coat as much as rubbing compounds can
    ms madkatz,

    when i said overcoat it means that they will apply clear coat again after doing those steps that i mentioned.

    so anong magandang gawin ko:

    - ipasok ko sa kanila then gawin nila yung steps mentioned above?
    - ipasok ko sa kanila with a different procedure that this group may suggest differently from the steps that they suggested?
    - or wag ko na ipasok sa kanila and ako na lang mag clay?

    ang habol ko lang sa totoo lang is malibre yung procedure coz pasok pa sa warranty and HARI told me that they will address my concern.

    pwede rin ako mag clay yunl ang sayang yung libreng procedure...

    thoughts please...

  10. Join Date
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    #140
    Quote Originally Posted by Hardinero View Post
    yung PowerBall4Paint
    its good for spreading waxes but also consumes a lot more product compared to traditional applicators and washing out the product can also become a mess

Detailing Thread [For Newbies][continued 2]