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June 9th, 2010 05:51 PM #4501hehe, i think thats the SRP of the local distributor, but if you ask me yes its already cheap compared to buying it abroad, actually using that would really give your car a mirror like finish so crisp you might actually lose some depth, if you are after a mirror like shine thats a good product for it, be sure to chase it with a good coat of carnauba after, its not really built for protecting against harsh conditions, it offers protection but not as thorough and as durable as the collinites.
i actually have my eyes set on the AG HD wax but its 6500 for only 150ml, i'm almost out on my last one and im still thinking if i'll get another since its too expensive, im also thinking about just ordering from the UK and have my aunt bring it over instead.Last edited by madkatz; June 9th, 2010 at 05:55 PM.
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June 9th, 2010 06:02 PM #4502hello, well i don't really bother or get into the details about him selling detailing stuffs but he's an authorized reseller of Microtex, so if you guys want to order anything from Microtex i think he gives out 10% discount on SRP of any microtex items, i think he also sells plush, terry and ultra plush by pieces for a lot cheaper, but these don't have individual packging, but im sure its a lot cheaper.
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June 9th, 2010 06:18 PM #4503Claybars are used for removing bonded contaminants on the paint, examples of these would be
Rail and Break dusts - these are like microscopic metal fillings that got stuck on your paint, these in time when exposed to water can develop rust and stain your paint
Asphalt - but you could use body solvents and kerosene for this
Mineral Water-water spots - the difference with this form of water spots and normal water spots would be the mineral content, acid rain etching will etch to the paint and would require polishing to reduce the clear coat to the level where the etched clear coat is level, mineral water spots are actually a combination minerals accumulated from the air and acid rain etching on the paint, the process of removing these would be to clay to remove the mineral deposits on the paint before polishing the reason is to have a uniform finish after polishing, its like imagine if you have about .02 mil of mineral deposit on the paint, and the etching also requires .02 mils of clear coat removed to be visually removed, then you would end up having to removing .04 mils on the unaffected area's, whereas if you clay you only remove .02 mils.
Tree Saps and bird droppings - claying these also work in the same way as mineral deposits, some tree saps bond to the paint really fast forming a sort of really hard spot of resin, and some bird droppings will also leave a number of bio-deposits on the paint like protein and enzymes that harden on the paint, you could remove these using claying, and you will need polishing to remove the remaining stain or etching.
So how do you know if you need to clay your paint?
get a plastic bag and put your hand inside it and glide your hand over the freshly washed and dried paint, if you feel small particles of dusts that didn't come off during washing, then those are bonded contaminants, some are visually noticeable some are not, but this test will let you feel the contaminants even if you don't see them.
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June 9th, 2010 06:21 PM #4504padaan lang ulit. :D
is nanosliq really good? would you guys recommend that to newbs?
oh btw, ngayon ko lang napansin, ang dumi nung bumper ng tuc ko sa likod! i've tried the usual wash and wipe but it didn't work. Para siyang water marks, medyo halata siya kasi black ung bumper e kaya kitang kita.
Tx :D
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June 9th, 2010 06:26 PM #4505ooops sorry 2x post
Last edited by madkatz; June 9th, 2010 at 06:33 PM.
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June 9th, 2010 06:38 PM #4506Oh yeah one other thing, if you're planning on getting optimum products from him you might also want to get the claybar since he's sellings it below SRP, as for optimum products, they're really good, they're part of our most recommended products and we won't be investing on the brand if its not that good and economical being its main selling point, at first you would think they're expensive but they are made to be diluted to when you take into consideration that part they are cheap
Last edited by madkatz; June 9th, 2010 at 06:51 PM.
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June 9th, 2010 06:44 PM #4507
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June 9th, 2010 06:47 PM #4508That would depend on which glass science product you are referring to, if its the kit you are referring to then the glass scrub is good for removing stubborn road film, these are the greasy film on your windshield, road films are usually not removed by spray on products, and the rain clear is a rain repellant, now if you are referring to the rain clear spray type compared to the EO 20/20, they are actually both at par in terms of cleaning abilities but rain clear has the added advantage of providing short term water beading. now the difference for me would be that glass science concentrated more on water beading where EO 20/20 is just a mild glass cleaner, if glass science is ok? yes glass science products are really good, its what i use for road films and rain repellant.
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June 9th, 2010 06:54 PM #4509Well, you heard the comments hehe, its better than some of the QD's out there and for the price its well worth it, as for the water marks on your tucs you might need to clean that part and start applying some wax to prevent more spots from occuring, and Nano Sliq is very safe even for noobs just make sure you have a plush MF towel or a MF towel with deep naps when using with it
Last edited by madkatz; June 9th, 2010 at 06:57 PM.
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