Rising temp during idle

**Galactus** · April 13th, 2009 01:58 PM

Happened to me before, pag traffic or idle, medyo mataas yung temp gauge, tapos mainit yung buga ng aircon. Turned out na mahina na yung ikot nung isang rad fan. Akala ko puwede sa carbon brush, pero sealed type pala yung fan ng Sentra Series 3. Ended up buying a surplus fan.

Pa-check mo rin yung radiator mo kung barado. Mura lang naman pa-overhaul, less than P500 (top overhaul ng radiator). Kung pati yung ilalim babaklasin, alam ko P900~ ang singil sa mga rad shops.

**macsd** · April 14th, 2009 08:41 AM

nothing worng with your thermostat as u have expalined from the test done. function lang ng thermostat is to immediately warm up the engine such that yung tubig lang sa loob ng engine block ang laman. once it get's to operating temp, the thermostat will open so water can start to circulate as you drive and it will keep open until engine cools down again (pagpatay na).

since hindi naman nababawasan ang tubig & your fans are operating, you may want to try experimenting on a new fan na masmaraming dahon para masmalakas ang buga ng hangin.

**Yoda** · April 14th, 2009 09:49 AM

With the symptoms you describe, I'd agree with the others. Baka mabagal na umikot fan mo. Pa-tignan mo kung pwede pa i-repair, pero mura lang naman yan, so a new one isn't a bad idea either.

**wickednasty** · April 14th, 2009 11:51 AM

ok.. i'll have the radiator fan replaced over the weekend..hopefully yun na nga yung solution...

pero ano kaya yung reason kung bakit nagooverflow yung water sa reservoir bottle at the time na tumataas yung temp, tapos halos wala nang water sa radiator? as in na top up yung reservoir bottle with the water+coolant mixture. yung radiator fan na rin ba culprit nun, or something else?

**Yoda** · April 14th, 2009 12:06 PM

Ganyan talaga, nago-overheat na e.

**mark_t** · April 14th, 2009 12:12 PM

Originally Posted by wickednasty

Good morning fellow tsikoteers.. hingi lang ako ng tips on how to resolve my car's cooling system problems. several months ago, my car experiences an increase in temp after 2 hours of driving.. regular yun from QC to laguna, paghinto ko bago pumasok ng gate, tumataas na temp up to 3/4. after checking under the hood, i noticed na puno ng coolant yung reservoir bottle tapos may bubbles pa na nagooverflow. then right after the engine cooled down a bit, i checked the radiator and halos wala nang tubig. after several diagnosis from different mechanics, first thing i did was to replace the reservoir bottle kasi medyo loose na yung thread nung cap. 2nd was to change the thermoswitch kasi sabi ng mechanic matagal raw bago umikot yung fan, then kung iikot man, about 5-10 seconds lang. still, those two remedies didnt solve the overheating problem. 3rd thing i did was to have my radiator overhauled and had the radiator cap replaced as well. after this, nawala na yung problem. this was done last january lang. im sure the overhaul somehow contributed something to "lessen" the problem kasi di na nagbabawas ng tubig yung radiator unlike before. di na rin nagooverheat when driving from QC to laguna.

But then last night, i drove from Roxas Blvd to Laguna, then when i stopped to get gas, while i was in queue, i noticed na tumaas nanaman yung temperature. so i turned the engine off and checked my car's cooling system, and ayun, ganun nanaman yung problem. nagooverflow yung water sa reservoir bottle. i didnt check, but im sure wala na masyadong water sa radiator. the only difference from last night compared to the onter nights where i drove for at least 2 hours was the heavy traffic. madalas kasi late at night ako bumabyahe from QC to laguna, pero last night nakipagsabayan ako sa rush hour.

another thing i noticed, bumababa yung temp to normal when the car is moving, then rises nga when idle. my thoughts about this is yung air na tumatama sa radiator serves as a cooling factor to it.

ano kaya REAL culprit sa problem na to? thermostat, cylinder head gasket and waterpump nlang natitirang pwedeng maging problema. i checked this morning, and wala nman ako nakikitang water leak na pwedeng manggaling sa waterpump.

possible kaya na sira yung thermostat kaya nagmamalfunction na rin yung bagong palit na thermoswitch? which results to the radiator fan not working properly. i also checked this morning lang, working and umiikot naman yung fan. im just not sure if its being turned on when its supposed to be spinning.

looking forward to your responses.. sana hindi cylinder head gasket yung prob.. hehehe.. medyo mahal parts and labor nun eh.. but if the symptoms above matches sa problem ng failing cyl head gasket, do tell.. pa include na rin ng estimated cost for parts and labor.. civic ESi yung car.. thanks in advance...

That is actually quite normal when you dont use a proper coolant and
the car has aged a few years. It is called wear and tear. The performance
of the cooling system degrades thru the years.

When you checked on the water leak, were you using a proper coolant?
It is very difficult to check for leaks using water in your coolant,
but you can use your FLIR weapon sights you have on your rifle if you
have one or can borrow. It works.

What you should do is pay attention on the type of water you use to
top off your radiator. Avoid deep well water if you live in a subdivision.
Use a proper coolant.

Please read the thermostat debate thread.

**mark_t** · April 14th, 2009 12:28 PM

Originally Posted by aga_cruz

hey bro ganyan din ang prblem ng dalawang ride ko L300 & PREGIO yung pregio pag natatrafic lang tumataas ang temp gauge pero bago tumaas mga 30 min idle sa trafic then pag tumaas na mag aacelerate na lang ako ng 2k rpm para bumaba ,, yung L300 KO naman pag binibirit or lumagpas na ng 90kmh tumataas sa gitna pero pag uphil ako like tagaytay tapos tanghaling tapat halos 3/4 ang taas nya but pag binagalan ko bumabalik sa normal temp gauge yung sa L3 ko halos di nababawasan ang water reservior pero ang radiator ubos palagi ang tubig

hmmm di ko din masagot ang tanong mo dahil me problem din akong ganyan minerge ko lang ang tanong ko din para makta ng ibang tsikoters

btw sir pag ba tumataaas ang temp gauge mo ilang minute or ilang oras na dapat naka idle para tumaas?

sana masagot ng ibang tsikoters ang problem natin?

how much nga pala ang papalit ng thermoswitch pwede ba ipatangal na lang yun para laging buhay ang blower?

Puede po kayo magpalit nang waterpump pulley wheel na mas maliit ng
20% Diameter para ma increase ninyo pump rate ng water pump.
Maghahanap nga lang kayo o magpapagawa sa machinist.

**wickednasty** · April 16th, 2009 01:42 AM

Originally Posted by Yoda

With the symptoms you describe, I'd agree with the others. Baka mabagal na umikot fan mo. Pa-tignan mo kung pwede pa i-repair, pero mura lang naman yan, so a new one isn't a bad idea either.

i observed the radiator fan last night, car wasn't used the whole day, and here's what happened:

- turned on the engine, then turned on the air condition system,and waited until the gauge reaches the normal operating temp.

- approx 15 minutes after the engine reached its normal operating temp, the radiator fan turned on for a duration of 15 secs then shuts off.

-radiator fan turned on again after an interval of 2-3 minutes, and again spins for exactly 15 seconds.

-timed the next interval, and after about 4 minutes, the radiator fan started spinning again....

so mga sir, is it safe to say that my radiator fan is functioning normally, or should i still go and have it replaced? based nman sa speed ng ikot nung fan, same speed naman sila nung fan para sa condenser.

**jick.cejoco** · April 16th, 2009 02:45 AM

Originally Posted by wickednasty

Good morning fellow tsikoteers.. hingi lang ako ng tips on how to resolve my car's cooling system problems. several months ago, my car experiences an increase in temp after 2 hours of driving.. regular yun from QC to laguna, paghinto ko bago pumasok ng gate, tumataas na temp up to 3/4. after checking under the hood, i noticed na puno ng coolant yung reservoir bottle tapos may bubbles pa na nagooverflow. then right after the engine cooled down a bit, i checked the radiator and halos wala nang tubig. after several diagnosis from different mechanics, first thing i did was to replace the reservoir bottle kasi medyo loose na yung thread nung cap. 2nd was to change the thermoswitch kasi sabi ng mechanic matagal raw bago umikot yung fan, then kung iikot man, about 5-10 seconds lang. still, those two remedies didnt solve the overheating problem. 3rd thing i did was to have my radiator overhauled and had the radiator cap replaced as well. after this, nawala na yung problem. this was done last january lang. im sure the overhaul somehow contributed something to "lessen" the problem kasi di na nagbabawas ng tubig yung radiator unlike before. di na rin nagooverheat when driving from QC to laguna.

But then last night, i drove from Roxas Blvd to Laguna, then when i stopped to get gas, while i was in queue, i noticed na tumaas nanaman yung temperature. so i turned the engine off and checked my car's cooling system, and ayun, ganun nanaman yung problem. nagooverflow yung water sa reservoir bottle. i didnt check, but im sure wala na masyadong water sa radiator. the only difference from last night compared to the onter nights where i drove for at least 2 hours was the heavy traffic. madalas kasi late at night ako bumabyahe from QC to laguna, pero last night nakipagsabayan ako sa rush hour.

another thing i noticed, bumababa yung temp to normal when the car is moving, then rises nga when idle. my thoughts about this is yung air na tumatama sa radiator serves as a cooling factor to it.

ano kaya REAL culprit sa problem na to? thermostat, cylinder head gasket and waterpump nlang natitirang pwedeng maging problema. i checked this morning, and wala nman ako nakikitang water leak na pwedeng manggaling sa waterpump.

possible kaya na sira yung thermostat kaya nagmamalfunction na rin yung bagong palit na thermoswitch? which results to the radiator fan not working properly. i also checked this morning lang, working and umiikot naman yung fan. im just not sure if its being turned on when its supposed to be spinning.

looking forward to your responses.. sana hindi cylinder head gasket yung prob.. hehehe.. medyo mahal parts and labor nun eh.. but if the symptoms above matches sa problem ng failing cyl head gasket, do tell.. pa include na rin ng estimated cost for parts and labor.. civic ESi yung car.. thanks in advance...

wicked,
to put an insight into your modern car's cooling system, they are normally designed to operate at optimum efficiency by conserving heat and at the same time prevent your engine from overheating. your car is designed to operate between 190-240 degrees fahrenheit to reduce exhaust emissions of unburnt fuel and prevent the formation of oxides of nitrogen in case of an overheat. your car's radiator contains less coolant compared to the cars of the sixties where the capacity is less demonstrated by a small single row radiator for three reasons: 1.- warmup time is reduced, 2. -the vehicle is lighter with less coolannt, 3.- the engine is not overcooled.
the system is cooled two ways; a. by the fan thermoswitch controlled fan, b. the ambient ram air when the vehicle is in motion. your description of the symptoms is that it happens when there is no ram air. things that can contribute to this vehicle stopped/engine running overheat are:
the radiator airlow is blocked by a bugscreen or nosebra, the radiator has been painted over insulating the cooling fins, the radiator fan is unable to pull or push air through the radiator or leaves or debris are present in front of the radiator.
in the case of the coolant not returning normally rom the recovery(reservoir, surge tank however you may call it), check for partially clogged hose between the radiator filler neck and the recovery bottle and for vacuum leak on the hose. you've mentioned that the radiator cap had been replaced. the normal rating for honda caps is 0.9 kg/sq.cm.(roughly 13 p.s.i.) check for pressure valve gasket or seal and the vacuum valve seal on the same cap(compound cap). for lack of complete information of your car, check to see if the cooling system needs to be bled as today's cars have lower hoodlines and the radiators are usually lower than the engine trapping air pockets in the cylinder heads.
jick

**kinyo** · April 16th, 2009 03:47 AM

i had a very similar experience with my former esi ... after radiator overhaul, changed plastic top into copper, and radiator cap with generic one ... the car ran for a few weeks without trouble and then the problem is back ... losing water

i supected the radiator cap, but since it is fairly new, i figured maybe the top rubber seal isn't quite up to specs (it looks thin) so i tried adding another rubber seal from a tire interior rubber (cut with scissors) and it worked!